Charlie P. (NY)

I normally add lead to my flies if I want a deeper pattern. Use red thread for the weighted and other colors for the non if you want options. I also use sinking lines or heads to get deeper rather than weights on the line. I find split-shot makes the line "hinge" when casting and messes up the presentation. Not to mention erratic fly flight that may gain you a fuzzy ear-ring at inopportune times.

I find my flies hold up better if I wrap away from me and then towards me if the bobbin is above the fly, but just the opposite if I start with the bobbin below the fly. ;-) Sometimes I switch up and do figure of eight turns around the wings or barbell eyes to really confuse things.

First I an recall was as a cub scout visiting a local conservation center (nature center at the time) that was at a state trout hatchery and watching a man tie flies. I was fascinated. At some point I ended up with a SSS Blue Stamp type fly rod. Still have it - cheap split cane and the handle flips to either be a miserable fly rod or an even more miserable spinning rod. Those rods invariably came with three flies: McGinty, yellow wooly worm, Royal Coachman - all wet flies. And I added a good 'ol South Bend copy of a Pfluger reel. I did catch some fish with that but eventually lost all the flies. Some years later at the 1973 Scout Jamboree in PA there was another demo (I suspect Ed Shenk but darned if I can confirm that) of fly tying. After that I bought a stamped vise and "kit" that was decidedly geared towards dressing jigs with chenille and saddle hackles and started to tie flies . . . sort of. I got good at leadwing coachmen once I started to purchase better materials. From there a C.H. Thompson, then a Thompson Pro and continued library book borrows. Been plugging away at it ever since.

Trout Unlimited has around 300,000 members. Not all tie flies (not all are even fly fishermen), but I would say that is probably a ballpark number of the Fly Tyers in the USA. BUT, I'd then add in the saltwater Tyers and likely double that. So: 600,000 . . . ish

This product sounds like a silcone water repellant coating. It will not renew the DWR and allow the jacket to breath. It will coat the jacket and make it less breathable. MSDS does not list silicone as an ingredient. https://www.nrs.com/assets/downloads/msds/msds%201908-303%20high%20tech%20fab.%20gaurd.pdf Not affiliated and not trying to sell anybody anything - but the manufacturer states it will not effect breathability of the fabric. https://www.goldeagle.com/product/303-marine-recreation-fabric-guard/ NRS - the company that makes kayak lifejackets and gear - recommend 303 Fabric Guard over a DWR for products that are heat sensitive (you have to "cook" DWR treated items in a clothes drier).

Long time user of a product called 303 Fabric Guard. For many, many years we used it on our marine canvas (Sunbrella biminis and dodgers) and these spend seven or eight months out in the weather. Then one year I got the bright idea to (re)treat a windbreaker I have that wasn't as rainproof as it had been. Worked great! I have also used it on Tilly hats but never tried with GoreTex.

Two things will help; Folding the hackle (there are YouTube videos on "folding a hackle" that would beat me trying to describe the process). Using a rotary vice. Here's an Orvis video on folding a hackle like I do it. You'll just be palmering from the back forward for the bugger tie. https://news.orvis.com/fly-fishing/video-how-and-why-to-fold-hackles-for-tying

I agree. I am finding more luck with black or copper than the brighter gold beads.

If you tie for saltwater or bass they would make a good Cockroach streamer.

We don't have Homebox but I did read the seven books out so far. Have seen most of the video available off YouTube and they did a great job with the casting and "sticking to the script". Better in some characters. Jane H'ghar (the Faceless Man) is much better in the videos. Good to put a face to the name. ;-)

I've been using a rechargeable Loon light with great success. https://loonoutdoors.com/products/uv-infiniti-light

Completely understand. I have had days on a local stream when nothing but "fallfish" (euphemistic name for chubs) were obliging but it was still a great day out. Hey, they put up a fight and if you're releasing everything anyway it doesn't much matter. ;-) Best fight I ever had was a 3 ft carp on 2 lb test and a 1/16 oz Mr. Twister in the Chenango River. I got the jig out of it's mouth after an epic 20 minute battle.

I was probably kindergarten age and my Grandpa or Aunt (who lived nearby) would take me to a local creek and I would pester chubs and daces with a fly on a cane pole and a wet fly. No reel. I even caught some. Made me a life-long fisherman. In fact, I still have a 12 ft cane pole and a 14 ft Tenkara rod - no reel needed - that I still occasionally play with. No question worms and bobbers off a shore or dock are probably easier for kids; but panfish are obliging and a lot of fun with flies.

Thick UV Cement? At least it works for waders.

And just for interesting - here's a video of Frank Sawyer himself tying the Pheasant Tail Nymph. (Copper wire and no thread).

Welcome. I'm thankful to France for their nymph techniques and the introduction of spinning reels. Marchons, marchons.

There is good and bad with such things. The Good: you get exposed to materials that may teach you a new technique or substitution for something you have been using. The Bad: They will not be tailored to the fish, and necessary lures/flies, that will be what you want or need for your fishing. I'd MUCH rather spend on materials for specific patterns and have useable stuff come in the mail. But I must say. I ordered a few spinners from Sheldon's /Mepps and, for the heck of it, I got a "grab bag" while I was there. It was six spinners and every one was something I will use and would have cost twice as much if bought individually. Looking at Smitty's - the $20 Intermediate Box they show looks like it ties 16 hoppers. The Hopper Fishing store will do that for $9 ($5.75/12 for a kit with hooks) plus a $2 spool of thread. Just say'n

Well how do you like that? Doesn't read that way. If they sell hooks that are the equivalent of Mustad, TMC or Gamakatsu hooks they may be OK. ;-)

Green hooks would depend on whether you are trying to attract humans or trout. Green is on the verge of what trout can detect near the surface. But trout don't buy flies. ;-)

If the forceps are clamped in a Renzetti vise he may have a promising career waiting for him as a New York State Highway Department Civil Engineer.

Flip on that Osterizer and you'll have some howdy rotary vice!

I believe the Magnesium that is sometimes used in freshwater reels does not play well in salt water.

Wasn't it Lee Wulff who would demonstrate tying a fly with no vice at all? Just holding the hook in his fingers. I don't have an image, but an interesting one I once saw was a 4" +/- brass rod of about 5/16" diameter. Sliced for about 2" lengthwise to make the jaws. A winged screw to close the jaws just fare enough back to clear the nose of the jaws. The rear was set in a maybe 1" dowel of about 6" height with a hole drilled at a 45 degree angle near the top that the brass "vice" slid into and was also held in place with a thumbscrew. 1" dowel was set into a wood base. All it did was hold the hook. But beautifully simple.

It was 55 degrees today (unheard of for April 2nd) and I grabbed a UL spinning rod w/2lb test and a 1/32oz. 1" Mr. Twister Teeny Tails (always use black in that size) and headed to a local lake. In 90 minutes I had these two and two smaller I put back. It's going to be bad for the local trout if this summer is again as hot as last summer.

This month a poly wing Thunder Thighs hopper instead of a foam wing..