What's the deal on fly reels?

[Roland58 0]

I am currently using a cheapo 8 wt, 9', rod with an even cheaper Pfleuger knock off automatic reel. With decent WFF line I can cast a reasonable distance. This setup is almost 50 years old! I am looking for a new rig that is properly matched and balanced. My confusion stems from the price of reels. I find them as cheap as $15 all the way up to $200+! Would someone please explain what I should look for to match a 5 wt rod and an expected price?

Thank you all. (keep in mind that I am retired on a minimal fixed income)

[flytyer62 0]

Roland,

the biggest differences are material and origin of manufacturing. If you are planning on doing run of the mill trout fishing any trout reel that will hold a 5wt line and 50 yards of backing will work fine. You can get some really nice reels for $40-$80 range through the big box companies Cabelas Bass pro shops. they will work for everyday trout stuff.

 

steve

[josephcsylvia 0]

I am currently using a cheapo 8 wt, 9', rod with an even cheaper Pfleuger knock off automatic reel. With decent WFF line I can cast a reasonable distance. This setup is almost 50 years old! I am looking for a new rig that is properly matched and balanced. My confusion stems from the price of reels. I find them as cheap as $15 all the way up to $200+! Would someone please explain what I should look for to match a 5 wt rod and an expected price?

Thank you all. (keep in mind that I am retired on a minimal fixed income)

In all honesty assuming your fishing a 5wt in freshwater your reel is just there to hold line. So find something used in your budget, I honestly feel that you need to spend more money when you need a good drag and good build quality usually saltwater fishing or salmon, steelhead.

[Piker20 0]

Even in the reels that hold size 8-12 lines, many people seem to forget they have a palm on their hand and it works great as a reel break. Salmon do not require a fancy reel. That's all part of the tackle tart side of salmon/steely fishing.

If you do lots of salt work then a reel that will last in that environment makes sense instead of buying reel after reel after reel.

Same if you target huge tarpon or bone fish, having a proper drag will make life simpler.

[Dave G. 0]

Okuma has a pretty decent line of well made reels. Redington too. My favorite click drag is the Orvis Battenkill, mostly because of the hybrid bronze click pawl and brass ring make it a lifetime reel ( cheaper click drags can wear out on you).. So that takes you from about $40-$99 with offering of composite materials, cast aluminum and cast machined aluminum offerings ( thinking weight differences to aid in balancing your rig). Each company has something in that dollar range. I'd probably skip the $15-$25 range personally.

[FlaFly 0]

I'm with Joe on this with the exception that if you fish for big fish (bonefish, pike) you'll need a reel that holds a lot of backing line and a good drag (or like Piker says, a tough hand). Some people use the reel to land fish, others like me strip the line in by hand and only reel it in when I'm through fishing. I've never had to hand strip a big fish like a salmon or pike so I don't know what that's like. I've been using Pflueger Medalist reels forever (except for a brief trial of a Garcia automatic, which I didn't like). I can't imagine using an automatic to land a fish, so I'm guessing you are a hand stripper.

 

My stock answer to almost all questions on this forum is: it depends on what you're fishing for.

[Roland58 0]

My target species are all freshwater.......mostly panfish, some bass and maybe some carp just for the fun of the fight. I'm nowhere near any salt water, although, I wish I was. I have some saltwater gear that ranges from 6 foot heavy boat rods to a 13 foot surf casting spin cast rig. Right now, I plan to restrict my fishing to freshwater and fishing from a kayak (the banks are just to heavy with vegetation for a back cast, hence, the kayak).

[rstaight 0]

I was looking at reels today for the 4wt and 5wt that I got at Christmas. I do not need or want a mid priced reel ($200+). I looked at Cabela's and Bass Pro for reels less than $50.

 

What I am leaning to is the Cablea's Wind River. They are cast aluminum but are on sale for $25. It is normally $40.

 

Other inexpensive reels I have are Cabel's Prestige Plus, Bass Pro Dogwood Canyon, and Okuma Sierra. Can't complain about any of them.

[Dave G. 0]

I'm with Joe on this with the exception that if you fish for big fish (bonefish, pike) you'll need a reel that holds a lot of backing line and a good drag (or like Piker says, a tough hand). Some people use the reel to land fish, others like me strip the line in by hand and only reel it in when I'm through fishing. I've never had to hand strip a big fish like a salmon or pike so I don't know what that's like. I've been using Pflueger Medalist reels forever (except for a brief trial of a Garcia automatic, which I didn't like). I can't imagine using an automatic to land a fish, so I'm guessing you are a hand stripper.

 

My stock answer to almost all questions on this forum is: it depends on what you're fishing for.

The one thing I didn't care for on the Pfluerger I owned was the plastic ring inside that mated with both the button pall on one side and drag on the other..

 

Flafly, everyone should have a whack at at least one big salmon with under sized equipment. One latched on to my 6 wt rig with a plain click reel . It's not what you think it is, I mean the whole rig was shaking and vibrating in my hands as he just free spooled against a lowly click drag,it was violent. Way different than a similar fish on a properly rigged 7-8 wt with disk drag. This guy was air born, then head over tail and shot off like a bullet headed down river for the next pool. I palmed him and ultimately broke off, Probably a good thing cause he was destined to strip my line off. Too fast to be grabbing the line, he had to be on the reel but that wasn't a choice , he did it in seconds.. Another trip is to hook a striper on fresh water spinning gear, oh yeah, done that one too ! I was fishing schoolies, well no one says .there isn't a keeper mixed in LOL. Don't let anyone tell you a keeper won't take a smaller cast master either. It was like trying to hold a bull with a piece of cloths line in your hands. You feel every crash banging tug.

[FlaFly 0]

If you're fishing for panfish, I'd stay with your reel and concentrate on getting a 3 to 5 wt rod. Catching panfish on an 8 wt is like using a broom handle!

[robow7 0]

Nobody wants a crummy drag but the only freshwater fish that I've caught that got me into my backing and or gave my drag a workout are carp and long nose gar. For every other species including moderate pike, it merely stores line.

[Poopdeck 0]

I always go with machined reels over cast. Cabelas have a few machined reels that can be had for under a hundred. No reason for my choice other then machined aluminum is better then cast.

[mikechell 0]

It's all been said.

I have 6 rods in the boat with me. Three of them have automatic reels. I never fight a fish "on the reel", it's just line storage. An automatic reel lets me get the line in and change to another rod (another presentation) quickly.

The other three have White River reels. Inexpensive, silent disc drags to prevent over running when I am pulling line off for longer casts, and suited to the rod.

One for my smallest rod since it's lighter than an automatic.

Two for my two largest rods because they hold more line ... just in case I DO get a fish than runs farther than usual.

[Roland58 0]

@rstaight,

I'll be checking out that reel from Cabela's, thanks for the "heads-up." I am sure they would have an appropriate rod to go with it.

Flafly, thanks for your most welcomed words of wisdom, however, I am looking to get a whole new rig.

A big thanks to everyone.....I will be paying more attention to the drag than the price. Even though the price can be a real drag!

[FIN-ITE 34 0]

As mentioned, most warm water species can be had with heavy leaders and hauling in the line by hand, seldom will you put a fish on the reel. However with cold water fish, lesser than salmon and steelhead such as a decent size trout in the 18"-20" class you will need to get the fish on the reel and a smooth drag will often times be the difference of landing the fish or losing it to a broken tippet or pulled hook because of too much pressure.