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Fly Tying


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About Goose77

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  • Birthday 07/24/1958

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    Brighton, Ia
  1. It seems that folks are unwilling to pay for fly tying information at this time. There's so much free information available...some of it isn't so hot, but a lot of it is very good. I'm glad there are tiers like you are willing to do this...even though you're basically working for free. Thank you for your efforts and cheers, Ed
  2. Hey Robert, welcome to the forum. I don't believe I can help you find inexpensive materials...it looks like flytire has a good source for you to check out. What I can say is that the forum is a really good place to learn. Good luck and cheers, Ed
  3. I followed Capt. Lamay's advice too. Fletch-Tite dries clear...it won't cloud the eyes like Goop, superglues, and E6000. These other glues are good, but care must be taken to not get them on the surface of the eyes. Also, some glues may react with your paints on a wooden bait. If you're going to clear coat over the eyes, you can use a water based or weaker glue. Cheers, Ed
  4. Oh yeah, one more thing. After you've gotten the fibers you need from the bundle, put the bundle promptly back in the bag. If it's left lying around the fibers will catch on everything in sight and become a disorderly mess. Ed
  5. These are good tips. I prefer zip-ties to tame a new bundle. I find the method by utyer very good, but use it mainly for Steve Farrar's blends. Johnnyq is right on about the number of fibers to place on the fly...it's real easy to overdo it on bundle amounts. These fibers are expensive, but you can make a lot of flies from one pack. There also are some nice alternatives through Fly Tyer's Dungeon...they're called Congo fibers. Also fine mono thread overall works better than flat threads like UTC or Danville's...it doesn't slide as much. Good luck and cheers, Ed
  6. In my experience, they are similar but not the same. The liquid fusion is easier to work with on coating bugs and popper faces than the Aileen's fabric fusion...it's just easier, better to apply. However, the end result is about the same. I, too, found Hobby Lobby recently out of Liquid Fusion. Bearsden had it, and I like it enough that I bought some rather than use my Aileen's. Cheers, Ed
  7. Very cool, Kimo...and a beautiful pic, as usual. Cheers, Ed
  8. Hey Muskie, obviously all the white/dyed over white is used, but I end up throwing out some of the dark hair on the back. Capt. LeMay is right on about using this dark hair as a spreader for split hackle tailed flies...not only does this split the hackle, but it really helps to prevent tail wrap. I use alot of bucktail, so some dark gets pitched. Cheers, Ed
  9. Stm, that's a beauty. Good luck Mike. Cheers, Ed
  10. Eide, those are good looking flies. Flytire, that is a cool idea, and I'd bet it sinks more quickly than the original...with a resin head it might be like a jig. Nice work you guys. Cheers, Ed
  11. Goose77


    Hey Philly, thank you for that Steve Farrar resource...this is a good idea. Cheers, Ed
  12. Hey Quill, on the lacquer topic. There is no specific brand that is needed for head cement. Any of the brands you might use or a wood finish are fine. And as Mr. Best pointed out, a can is like a lifetime supply. Ed
  13. Hey Chris, this is a good topic...and I believe there will be a wild variety of possible solutions given. Sally Hansen's IS good, especially for flies with a bigger head that you want to shine. I use it, but not on little flies with a small head...here I use a water based cement that is much finer in viscosity cuz it's easier to apply to a small spot. When I need to glue things to get a tough, durable bond; Flexament or the thinned shoe goo trick is excellent. I like this alot on the interior of big streamers and deer hair flies...I don't want these materials to be able to "twist" on the hook. Oh yeah, A.K. Best recommends lacquer like you can get at the hardware store, and it does work well as a head cement...it is very inexpensive. Good luck...there's alot of good alternatives. Ed
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