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Fly Tying


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About DrLogik

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    Charlotte, North Carolina

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  1. DrLogik

    New Vise

    My opinion alone... I bought a rotary years ago, a Renzetti Traveler, but sold it about two years later. I found it completely un-needed for the type and style flies I tie (mostly "traditional" or Catskill style flies). I got good at twirling the shaft around to speed up tying but I really didn't "take" to that kind if vise. If you're in to tying tube flies then a rotary is the way to go but for traditional flies, I found it...cumbersome actually. I would suggest getting a used one and really try it out before spending big bucks for a new one. BTW, I went back to my Dyna-King Pro vise. It's been old reliable for many years.
  2. My guess is it was designed to re-spool off of a standard spool to fill its spool with thread.
  3. Looks a lot like an all wood bobbin that Wasatch might make, although I don't recall them making an all wood bobbin.
  4. When I was just getting started as a kid in the early 1970's it was Reuben Cross. During the 2000's it was Oliver Edwards and Dave Brandt. From 2010 on it was mostly Dave Brandt and Del Mazza. I prefer the traditional patterns, materials and methods.
  5. Mogup, Once Charlie gets to know you he'll sell you items that aren't available to first time purchasers. You might ask him if he has a Cree neck that he'll sell you... DrL
  6. If the old Goop smells like "airplane glue", then it's toluene. It used to be called toluol. Home Depot sells toluene. Many traditional airplane glues are still made with it. As I recall, "dry cleaning fluid" was often made with Carbon Tetrachloride. Toluene isn't great but Carbon Tet was truly nasty stuff (carcinogen), that's why it was taken off the consumer market decades ago.
  7. I build most of my rods so they are all "odd ball". The only store-bought rod I have that falls into that category is a graphite Gatti rod I ordered straight from the factory in Italy years ago. I've never seen another Gatti rod on the stream. It's a beautiful and serious casting tool. Workmanship is almost on-par with older Winston's, at half the price of Winston's at the time
  8. Black cobbler's wax is also used to change the color of the silk thread. It also darkens it. For instance, Pearsall's Primrose Yellow waxed with Black Cobbler's wax turns the "right" color green for a number of North Country Spider flies. Waxing the last bit of dark thread with Black wax and then whip finishing provides a very durable head on the fly also. No varnish is "needed" to hold it together. The stuff is tenacious.
  9. Remember Flexament? It's been mentioned previously. You can make your own by using a 50/50 mix of Shoo Goo and Toluene (used to be called toluol). Pour some Toluene into an old bottle 1 oz. glass bottle then squirt the same amount of Shoo Goo, cap and shake. I use it for Jungle Cock eyes as it remains flexible and doesn't tend to peel off. For head cement, it works just as well as the old Flexament but I like a harder head cement and don't use it much for that.
  10. I've been making my own wax and traditional head cements for many years. Beeswax, pine rosin and a little tallow or castor oil is all you need. For silk thread wax, I typically use a 70% Rosin, 30% beeswax with a little bit of tallow or castor oil. Heat the mixture up on low heat until melted then carefully pour into a silicone cupcake baking tray. I haven't made the stuff in a few years and gave away most of what I made. If you want to go all out, pour the molten wax into cool water, wait until it's cooled enough to touch (be really F'n careful here folks!!), then knead and pull the wax (like taffy). Continue to pull just before it hardens up and form into small pea-sized pellets. The small pellets are 'less prone' to snapping the silk line when waxing. A larger block of wax can grab the thread and snap off much more easily. If you don't want to go the DIY route, Bill Bailey (wsbailey - see post above) makes great tying waxes. You can get it here: https://feathersmc.com/product/cobblers-wax/
  11. Buy plain thread and wax it yourself. Advantage: you can control how much wax you want, how tacky, how slippery, special uses, etc.
  12. I have a couple of Matarelli's (extended and standard) but don't use them much any more. I've become proficient enough over the years to tie and hand whip knot on most flies. I also found that the cheaper knock-offs worked just as well once you smooth them up on the curved end.
  13. Around 10 to 15 years ago I bought a #1 true Cree neck from Metz. It was incredible. Around 6 or 7 years ago I got a Cree from Charlie Collins and it is even more impressive. True Cree necks are rare. They are a genetic oddity. Charlie Collins explained to me that you can't really "raise" as Cree neck chicken. You get one or you don't. They have always been a Unicorn in the fly tying world, the true Cree necks. Some necks being peddled as Cree are not true Cree.
  14. If you can find a tube of Ambroid glue in your local hobby store (or online), mix it 50/50 with toluene solvent (also hard to find) to get a very flexible true glue that bonds extremely well even when wet. Wood and canvas canoe makers have used Ambroid for decades to glue the canvas. This stuff:
  15. Feather Craft's catalog is always pretty good but I buy most of my stuff from Whitetail Fly Tying Supplies.
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