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angelo24

How to get material off your hook

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What's the best way to safe your hook after you completely messed up on a fly. I try to use the stove top but that wasn't the greatest idea I lost 2 wet fly hook's. They stay gooey, black and point of the hook didn't feel as sharp. It also took a long time standing over the fire burning the material off and the thread really stick's to the hook. It's a ridiculous question but I would like to safe my other 6 hook's

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What's the best way to safe your hook after you completely messed up on a fly. I try to use the stove top but that wasn't the greatest idea I lost 2 wet fly hook's. They stay gooey, black and point of the hook didn't feel as sharp. It also took a long time standing over the fire burning the material off and the thread really stick's to the hook. It's a ridiculous question but I would like to safe my other 6 hook's

 

razor blade

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Yeah, stove top was definitely high on the imagination chart.

If you have a rotary vice, there's always the party method. Get an end of the thread started ... loosen up the vice so it will rotate as easily as possible ... then pull on the string sharply. This will unwrap the thread, and flip tying materials around like confetti. Add a drink and you have a miniature party !!! Wheeeeeeee !!!

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I couldn't agree more with the razor blade idea. I have extensive knowledge on this subject because I have cleaned off quite a few hooks with this method. I don't like the idea of burning the materials from the hook (and I have tried it also) because I have been told that you change the temper of the steel and the smoke and fumes that occur with this method, not to mention the possible toxins in the smoke from the various dyes and and chemicals in the materials. BUT....since I am extremely bored at this time, I think I will wind on some thread and free up my vise a little....I quit drinking years ago but a Dr. Pepper will do I guess....now pull...Wheeeeeeeeeee!!!!!! thanks mikechell, I will be laughing all about this.

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I use the stove top mainly for spinning gear, after a few days ever cleaning the knot out I would to it over the stove top either it's braid, mono or flurocarbon line. I have some razor blades around the house. Thanks all.

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Saw a post a while back on removing materials from the hook. Don't remember who posted the idea, but if you squeeze the material with a flat jaw needle nose pliers, the thread and material will basically break against the hook. It will come off very easily after that. Have tried it a few times (don't screw up often :rolleyes: ) and it works really well.

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I do something similar with saltwater flies - I scrunch the heads with round-nosed pliers and use a single-edged razor blade on the body materials of smaller flies and a utility knife on the bigger ones. If you're doing trout flies, you can probably get away with an Exacto knife. Whatever you use, it pays to exercise caution and try to avoid puncture and slice wounds. I hold the hook by the bend with the eye pointed down onto a flat surface. The sharper the blade the better.

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Heat up a peice of clothes hanger wire one stove until red hot and rub it on top of the hook shank, this will even melt through lead wire

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I use an Exacto-knife (a razor blade with a handle) most of the time. I have used the pliers method, and that works, too. Never tried the heated-up clothes hanger, but that sounds like fun and would probably irritate the wife. I'll have to try it. :rolleyes:

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I use a butane torch and melt the stuff off. I haven't had any change of effectiveness in the hooking/fish holding ability to date. I initially was hesitant about that as well, but I specifically fished flies I had previously set aside to test just that, and landed several fish per hook without any problems. Be warned- burning synthetics and furs alike- STINK. have ventilation.

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It sounds to me like we have a few pyro's on our hands.

 

I have cleaned quite a few hooks in a past month or so with a razor blade with no issues.

 

Put the hook in the vise and run the blade down the shank.

 

Pull off materials.

 

Tie again.

 

If you use a lot of superglue, acetone is your friend.

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I just read through this again and just had to add one little bit of information that might be important to know. One of the posts said something about a flame or heat to remove materials would even melt the lead wraps. I would be very careful while doing this because the fumes from melting lead are very toxic and has been known to kill people. I watched a show years ago about the building of the Golden Gate bridge and the workers that died because of leads poisioning. I think, if I remember correctly, that the heat from the rivets and the lead based paint reacted and gave off toxic fumes that killed a number of workers. I have breathed so much body shop dust and paint fumes over the years that I am a little touchy on this subject and would hate to think of an otherwise healthy person exposing themselves to any toxins if it could be avoided. Take Care, Tony

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