Carl Z

Medalists for their durability, affordability and nostalgia, Ross Gunnison for a modern equivalent Able Big Game for truck stopping ability JW Young (Sage 106m) for a sturdy click & pawl reel. There are lots of other favorites, but I think those are the reel's that beat out all the others. When I'm fishing, I don't want to have to baby my reel and these all stand up to the bangs of wading rocky high gradient streams.

I am still using streamer boxes built off your posts from long ago (photo/scrap booking box and foam). What glue are you using now to keep that foam in place.

I did figure it out. (I think) My display name requires a space in it to log in. (Why did I do that.)

I have been able to do a password reset, and it lets me log in, but if I log out, I can't log back in. Am I missing something?

Have you tried gently heating the epoxy (is it the resin or the hardener that has the bubbles, I glossed over that in the original post)? I start with hot tap water and drop the bottle in. If that doesn't help, I bring water up to boiling and take it off and then drop the epoxy bottle in. Some sloooow rolling of the bottle while the epoxy is warm may help. You are trying to reduce the viscosity of the material so the bubbles rise to the surface. The laying out the epoxy on aluminum foil and using a slight heat source below it will also help (as long as the heat source is not hot enough to form bubbles). spreading the epoxy out reduces the distance a bubble has to rise before it pops. Thinning the epoxy also helps, but it completely changes the character of the epoxy when it goes on. Good luck.

FWIW, I just ordered a solarez trial pack and an ultra-fire rechargable UV light. The total is under $30 and I'm sure I will end up getting other UV cure resins but this was a way to get started.

Kimo, Is that chart relatively up to date with prices and offerings? I saw the site, but wasn't sure how valid it still was. I really appreciate the work you put into that. As for lights, has anyone tried one of the cheap UV lazers that are around? I've heard good things about them. My initial use will be coating popper bodies, and while it may be expensive, it will get used a lot more than epoxy for these. I was tempted to go with solarez thin and flex and get a decent light. Are there any thoughts on lights that cure the common resins fast. I know they all have their "custom light" but if there is probably a decent overlap.

I am ready to take the plunge into UV curable resin's and I'm confused. There are a bunch of survey articles and blog posts but most seem to be at least 4 years old which seems like a long time for a new material. Is there advise for the easiest/most economical way to get started? I expect to be using the resin to seal the eyes and heads on baitfish, for coating poppers and then for other things which I am sure will come along. I don't want to be investing in equipment I know I will outgrow (cheap curing lights, ...) and I am really wondering if there is some accepted, conventional wisdom about getting started with UV curable resin's. Thanks, Carl

Poor. Ooops, Capt. Bob beat me too it.

SDR PVC comes in 21, 26 and 32 if I remember. The lower the number the stronger and heavier, but 21 is still a lot lighter than schedule 40. It is not rated for house use and is sometimes called low pressure pvc. It is used heavily in irrigation. If you live out west (in the dry places) your local hardware store may carry it. Here in Washington DC, the only place I can find it is an irrigation supply house, specifically a supply house for sprinkler systems. You might try searching for places that carry Toro or Rainbird sprinkler heads and try there. I was recently in WV and the local Lowes had it up to 1&1/4" so I stocked up. It made for an awkward trip home, but it is so much nicer for rod tubes. Shedule 32 is really light and not nearly as crush resistant as the other two, but if I could find some I would use it for a lot of my generic PVC tubing or for a pvc tube to protect my metal tubes.

Also, find a local fly fishing club or casting instructor. Sometimes some fly shops run quick clinics.

Great camera work. Too often you see the focus go in and out. I like the blue background, but I would try to get a background that also covers the desk and doesn't have the vertical line in it. The eyes seemed a bit crooked throughout the tie. Just a bit off, but before putting something up publicly, I like perfection. I would end with a repeat of the material and information on yourself. Looks good. I also viewed on mute. If you aren't speaking directions, then this is basically a pattern video and maybe figure out how to speed it up. I really like it, but am offering constructive criticism. Don't take these things as big flaws.

You're going to fish that? I thought it was going under glass.

I've been using a Rainy's bobbin threader for years and they are fantastic. My only problem is it is yet another gaget to loose on the bench.

It's funny. with my normal fly tying scissors, I keep them in my hand. With WISS snips I put them down (they are too pointy) It took a little getting used to keep my scissors in my hand. I have a pair that likes to fall open. I keep them on my thumb, but the other end drops down. It took me a bit to avoid feeling like I was going to poke myself. Also, I use the closed tip of my scissors to lower the thread down to the eye if I am whip finishing by hand. It allows me to whip finish 6/0 by hand for patterns without a lot of hackle to get in the way. Carl