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About LisaLou

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1967

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    Yellow perch
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    Rapid River, Mi

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  1. I saw a device on auction as a fly thing vise, but it is a magnetic indicator base, commonly used by machinists. Is there a machinist out there that can give their opinion of the holding strength of one of these bases? I use a metal typing desk and love anything magnetic. Would this style of base be strong enough to be repurposed as a fly vise base? Maybe to hold a bobbin cradle or parachute device? I know there are many different sizes of magnets used, so mileage would vary. I could even see it as a lamp base, tying background plate holder, or a rod for draping materials to stage them. I’m sure it could handle that and be very useful as a multitasking base. but I would like to know if one has got the strength to not bob up and down under the pressure of tying. I also noticed there are stationary rods and other mounted on a ball joint. Thanks, LL
  2. The craft fur brushes in the video are probably for pike, as he has other videos making like pike lures. I did not really think it was possible to make a 40” brush, that’s why I asked what was the longest viable brush length. I was simply stating the size of the work space I have for supplies and the brush table. thanks for all the help and comments. I will order a couple different gauges of wire to try. I sure wish I did not have to wait a week or more for everything to get to me. All I can find locally is craft jewelry wire which will surely rust. I probably have super fine copper wire somewhere if I can find it. Though It might just be copper colored jewelry wire with my luck. thank you all, LL
  3. In this video, he makes three different brushes at the same time. It seems like a good idea to me. So the general consensus is 12” is normal and 18” probably the upper limit for getting a successful brush. It would be nice to make three 6” brushes at the same time, using the same materials distributed differently. I take full time care of my beloved 95 year old mother who is in a wheelchair and housebound, especially in wintertime. I am essentially housebound, too. My time is cut up into many short chunks 24/7, including my sleep. It seems like about the time I set up to do something, I have some other task to deal with and often times lose my momentum and creativity. Setting up and making several at the same time is very appealing. I’m also one of those people who really enjoy the process of prepping materials. I enjoy folding feathers for example, and really like picking out the materials to make thread dubbing brushes. I have watched many videos of dubbing brush tables and diy tables. I do not have room to store a proper table right now. There was an oasis tying station on auction that I coveted, very nice products. The lack of storage for a brush maker table is why I’m thinking of clamps on my desk. My personal space for hobbies is limited to my bedroom using my rolling typing desk for everything. Or lap projects while in other parts of the house. I (try to) tie in hand a lot while keeping my mom company, but rarely can ever finish anything. AMaking some brushes when I can’t sleep and have a hour to myself, then using them to tie tubes in hand while I keep her company is kind of my goal. Maybe not a realistic goal. But it sounds good in my head. My eyes are too shot by night for tying, but I could do some brushes. I could have less materials to keep untangled and maybe finish something during the day. With all the medical equipment, I don’t have room for a tying desk in my mom’s room. That is what would be idea. I could tie while she reads or puts together children’s wooden puzzles as hand therapy. Not to mention she is interested in the process. thanks for all the input, LL
  4. I have made some dubbing brushes using a macrame board as a dubbing table using thread, flymph style. I am thinking I would like to make a proper dubbing brush setup, with rotating hooks on each end, or maybe the ability to attach a dremel to make a power spinner. I just discovered composite brushes and they look like a lot of fun the make. I saw plenty of comments that people did not like certain manufactured tables because they wished they could make a longer brush. I’ve seen commercially made brushes that are 12” long. I am wondering if there is a limit to how long a brush you can efficiently make, before materials don’t lock into the wire properly. My desk is an old metal typing desk on wheels, with a fold down wing extension on each side. It’s about 20” wide. With the wings up, I could support a set up around 40”. I’d lose a few inches to the mechanics of the spinner hooks on each end, but in theory I could make one long brush. I could load it with different materials and cut it to make many small ones. I should add I’m not actually making a base. I will use my rotating vise at one end and probably another cheapo vise at the other with a swivel to allow spin, so I can clamp them on my desk at whatever length I need them. I’m hoping someone has already pushed the limits of how long a wire dubbing brush can be made before it just doesn’t work. If someone has a good source for stainless 34 gauge wire, I would appreciate that too. I’m in Michigan for shipping, no fishing superstores near me. I also want to make some Pike and Muskie lures which are tied on coils, like springs. I was wondering if I should use a heavier wire for toothy big fish, or if 34 gauge will hold up for that application. I wonder if anyone would do a dubbing brush swap, instead of flies? I think that would be fun to swap brushes then make a fly with what you end up with. There would be a couple weeks between making the brushes, and then making a fly from each brush you receive from your swapmates, so there would not be too much pressure. Just a thought. thanks for any info, LisaLou
  5. Hi, I got a bunch of packs of synthetic tying material. The orange reminds me of the fibers in an anti-static synthetic feather duster, kind of like Barbie having a bad hair day. I’m not sure what it is made out of. I reread the ad and it just says synthetic, no actual material makeup. before I start posting flies using this material, I would like to know the proper term for this stuff. It’s in a hank bound in half with a zip tie. I put a piece of tinsel and flashabou on it for size reference. thank you, LL
  6. Yes, I am working with hanks or skeins of floss. I wanted to split the thread down the entire eight yards and wind it on a bobbin, rather than having a bunch of shorter cut lengths. I found the very slick rayon thread to be quite easy to split the full eight yards. I ended up doing the method of holding one thread and scrunching down the rest of the threads. Before starting, I found the middle and gripped it between the fingernails and “pushed” the twist down to the end, the went back to the middle and did it again toward the other end. Doing this a couple of times to align the threads and push out the twist made it much easier to extract a single thread. I then wrapped up half the thread and pushed it to the side to keep it out of the way. In the middle, I extracted a single thread and started pulling it out, using the technique shown in the video. I had to stop and push down the bunched up wad a few times as I was working with 8 yards, but was pleasantly surprised how easy it went. When the wad of threads balls up, STOP. Grab the very bottom of the wad and draw it out toward the free end. Get the threads vaguely aligned again, then start pulling out your single thread again. I tried peeling two threads at the same time and it was not worth it, almost tangled it up. Better to peel one thread, then do it again to peel out a second. Any additional threads peeled out are much easier, as most of the twist has been pushed out. So I completely peel out one thread from the middle to the end, then go back and pull out the feast of the thread from the middle toward the other end. I tried starting and one end and working toward the other, but eight yards was too much to manage so did half at a time. It worked, but I think it was longer time wise and more fiddling to work from one end to the other, than working from the middle out. Remember it is only this easy with shorter lengths. I had to ease that wad of thread back down towards the end several times, to completely extract one thread. Two single eight yard threads will come close to filling a standard sewing machine bobbin. The remains four strand length of thread was wound around a plastic embroidery thread card and will be stored until needed, or if I want to use several strands at once for a special effect. On sale, It cost me 37 cents per skein. So I ended up with 48 yards once separated, if used single strands. I have used more strands for different effects. Cotton floss is also available and from what I have read, will work just fine for tying as long as you let the flies dry after use. It is not shiny, but does come in variegated colors, while the rayon generally is only solid colors for some reason. metallic floss doesn’t seem to go on sale very often and is generally $2 to $4 for 8 yards(48 when split) Metallics are harder to split because the threads drag against each other. It can be done doing the push down splitting method as above, but I found a video of a gal splitting threads using a fishing swivel. This works very well and is less stressful on the metallics. This method works. I tried it out and was able to peel a single strand by 8yards. i also made a few braided hanks. This really is a nice method if you are happy with shorter lengths. Also you can hang the hanks in a hanging file folder storage box, with seems like an awesome storage method. The other advantage is you can pull out two or more strands at the same time without a tangled mess. I actually prefer working with the shorter cut strands because am not using a bobbin holder very often. I wound a bunch of thread on bobbins in hope to force me make friends with my bobbin holder. As I mentioned before, after many years of crocheting, I am very “hands on” with holding and tensioning thread. The cheap, frugal, crafter in me also worries about too many unusable short lengths of thread. you can see in this video how you could do this technique and hang the whole thing inside a hanging file box. I personally would not braid everything together, I would do individual, so you can remove one if you wish. this is a commercially made system, but could easily be done by repurposing the top portion of a file folder and making your own hangers. I hope this helps out anyone else who is interested in using hanks or skeins of floss and separating it into individual threads. There are so many options in floss out there to try. And from what I read, do not be scared off by cotton floss. I read many forums and posts about cotton floss and cotton sewing thread being used. it does not rot if allowed to dry out. It is a softer look that will fuzz up, but for many flies, that buggy look is perfect. here are some of my own photos that I hope helps. Videos sometimes go away and there is nothing to see. Cut and loosely twisted, then coiled around each other. You could braid as well. I looped the tail through the top so it can be hung up and not hang down so long. Unloop it first. isolating a single strand to pull out with my fingers. You can see how it bunches up a little. Because it is metallic and a little grippy, I pulled out one side, then the other. the thread is out and I smoothed out the Hank by pulling on the bottom and top gently. The hank is none too mussed up. isolating a single thread in middle of an 8 yard length of Rayon floss. Don’t forget to draw the floss through your pinched fingers to push out as much twist as possible before you start. IT REALLY HELPS! I coiled up the other 4 yards around a piece of cardboard to keep it from trying to join in with the rest of the party. I am pulling on a single strand and letting the rest bunch up in my hand until I feel resistance. Oh my God! What have I done! Don’t panic. Grab the bottom of the wad and draw it down toward the end. Keep tension on your single thread. it will unruffle and you can then pull up on your single thread until you have another thread nest to draw out. the threads are not knotted, only wound around each other. That is why before I started, several times I drew the length through my fingernails and pushed out as much twist as possible. there are many options and it’s a cheap way to get colors you might not use often, or are unavailable in fly thread. i am posting this before I screw up and delete it somehow, so I will edit it later for glaring errors. Best regards, LisaLou
  7. Thank you Phluffhead. It does look more like a squid for sure. I eat shrimp more often so that is what came to mind, after cleaning and de-veining a bunch of shrimp for Christmas (not sure I want to do that again, I had pruny fingers by the time I was done) It’s super easy fly to make. thank you Niveker. I stayed simple because I really liked how the black and gold thread looked. The square beads is one of the few I have that the 2mm tube fits into easily. I almost put a big red dot of nail polish on two sides for eyes, but let it go. I love the name, so thanks for naming the fly! And great work everyone. It's always an inspiration to visit this thread. Thanks for taking the time to take photos and post.
  8. Hi, I’m wondering if anyone is using thread or floss that comes in hanks, rather than on spools. Embroidery floss is usually in hanks. However I have a bunch of silk floss in hanks, waiting to be used. Like embroidery floss, it is several strands wound together. It is intended to be separated into individuals strands when used, so winding the whole hank onto a bobbin or around an index card isn’t that much of a help. What is commonly done is the Hank cut and folded in half. Then you make a loose braid . You hold the bottom of the braid at the cut end. At the fold over at the top of the braid, you tease out a single strand and pull it out. The rest of the strands stay relatively together in the braid. because the floss is folded at the top, your working length is double the braid length. The big question is, what length do I cut the strands for the braid? Cross stitchers generally go around a foot to 18”. More than that, and you are roughing up the thread too much by pulling it through the fabric too many times. Because we wrap, that is not an issue. I do think realistically, 24 to 30” is about the longest I can go because the braid gets to ruffled up trying to pull longer lengths of thread out. People hang these braided hanks in hanging file folder plastic bins to store them, so it seems like good Hank thread management. But I don’t want to shoot myself in the foot having lengths of thread too short to complete a fly without relying in the thread. A hanging file box is 11” deep, so I could easily make braids with 20” threads. to complicate matters, do to reasons of a new puppy and elderly people, I am now focusing on tube flies to try and keep the hooks put away. When the puppy isn’t constantly into everything, I’ll be comfortable having hooks out. i can post photos if it helps. It makes sense to me, but I think my description might be confusing. I’m sure most people are using spools, but I just got a package of a hundred colors of silk thread hanks to try out, and could never afford to buy that much spooled. I have not tied enough tubes to have a real idea what amount is normal. If someone else has a floss management system for tying, I would love to know. I split a couple hanks of 6 strands floss that were 8 yards long into its individual strands and wound them on bobbins. Each bobbin has either a Single strand, two stands, or three strands, using all six. It is the most frugal method since there is no short leftover pieces of thread and gives me choices as to thread density. but does use three bobbins per hanks and is so time consuming. This method is something I will reserve for my variegated metallic and other exotic flosses. They are worth it. Thanks for any input, LL
  9. Pink Tube Fly, normal and UV light. (I bumped it in the dark and rotated it accidently, so it looks a little different) 2mm pony bead lacing tube 3/8” organza ribbon, one edge stripped and palmered up the body. Flashabou, metallic jewelry cord deconstructed, and metallic embroidery floss for tail one sequin reamed out a little bigger as nose cone Loctite glue Clear nylon thread i think with the addition of eyestalks, it could be a shrimp type creature. Or without the tail, a tiny pink Christmas tree. I guess we know what I’m submitting for 2024 Christmas contest.
  10. Because it’s flexible, my understanding is a junction tubing is not needed, unless the eye of the hook and knot was quite large (or preferred). I am using a pin slightly small than the tube ID of 1mm. I slightly compress the tube a touch during first wraps. it pinches the back enough so the hook stops where the wraps start. At least with a size 14 firehole and some other random hooks I have tried. The link I posted to Canadian tube Flies Flex Tube mentions junction tube may not be needed. I think it’s probably more “plastic-like” than the pure silicone tubing I have. I have seen videos of people heating the end slightly and then inserting the hook so the end forms a more oval shape to hold the hook for the flex tube. p.s. …… upon looking further into the CTF site, I think I have Wiggle tubing, or very similar to it. I think I will try and do as instructed there for a couple flies. It looks like fun and I believe I got the same stuff commonly called pony bead lacing (some is solid and some a tube. At a glance, the packaging with the tube style lacing will include some pegs to connect the tube into a necklace. The solid cord style will obviously not.) https://www.canadiantubeflies.com/tube-fly-tying-wiggle-tubes.html i do get the physics of too loose or too tight or wraps because I am not tying on a rigid object. I did not think of that as a possible issue. I think because I lucked out and happened to use a a pin very slightly smaller than the tube, I have not experienced those issues……yet. It simply was not on my radar that the wraps could get wonky since the tube seems pretty rigid once on the pin. Another thing is silicone is really grippy. There is no sliding anything anywhere on the first layer of wraps, even my slippery metallic threads grip nicely. I also am tying in hand about half the time and as a matter of habit use half hitches liberally, whether in vise or in hand. I have not had a fly unravel so far and have not overly struggled to slide the finished fly from the pin. But I will try a qtip for the suggested wiggle worm set up and see how that goes. I feel like this 2mm OD silicone is smaller and more comfortable for me to tie on than a qtip. It's funny, because I'd have to pull out a micrometer to find the difference between the tubing and a qtip. Weird,. Anyhow, I hope this stuff works out to be durable and usable because I like it a lot. It glows under UV, too. I have a couple experiments to try, now that I know too much flex might cause my wraps to shift once the fly is whipping around in the wild and not parked on a rigid mandrel. I could coat it with resin I suppose, but now we are getting weighty. thanks for the help and things to think about, LL pps, I think they would make for some really killer earrings, if not durable enough for fishing. Lots of flair with little weight. I was a teen in the 1980's and feather earrings were very popular. We thought we were really hot stuff, trying to look like Stevie Nicks and her boho gypsy look.
  11. Tube fly metal bead 2mm silicone tubing (Pepperell pony bead lacing) animal fiber DMC Diamant thread Black and Gold SH hard as nails polish size 14 firehole hook
  12. There are all kinds of systems out there, it’s mind boggling. I do have many crafting supplies on hand already and would like to graduate up from brittle q tips to some tubing I already have. It’s silicone 2mm OD and 1mm ID, very soft and flexible and available in many colors. It does melt, so I can roll a lip with a lighter. I see in videos and products that most plastic tubes are somewhat rigid. Is there some reason that a soft tube can not be tied on? I did see some softer tubes being sold at Canadian Tube Flies and was wondering if anyone has used it for the body. It looks just like my pony bead lacing tubing, which I already have. I’ve tied a few flies on the bead lacing and they seem okay. I find it very easy to tie on and work with. The body is flexible, but I’m not sure if that is good or bad. Seems more lifelike maybe? Anyhow, I don’t want to invest my time in tying on very soft tubing if there is a compelling reason not to. I just can’t see a downside and was hoping someone else has tried to tie on soft tubing and could advise me. (The only problem I had was tying too tightly, so it was squished down onto the mandrel and tough to slide off when I was done.) https://www.canadiantubeflies.com/tube-fly-tying-flex-tubes.html thanks, LisaLou
  13. Hi, I found a reference to a person who wove flies back in the 1940’s, out of Detroit Michigan. I believe he may have owned a sporting goods store and found references to him teaching fly tying as libraries. I think his full name is Edward C. Reith, but I’m not sure. I found the reference in an old fly tying book available for free online. There are many old fly tying books available online, in the public domain. As I enjoy tying in hand, I like looking through these books. Some of them were written before vises were in use, and the illustrations and directions are for in hand. https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.$b271773&view=1up&seq=103 Reference to Mr. Reith in Fly patterns and their origins, by Harold Hinsdill Smedley https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924068965494&seq=1&q1=Flymph This the Art of tying the wet fly, a really great book on flymphs and pushing a hundred bucks to purchase a bound copy. https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Search/Home?type[]=subject&lookfor[]=" Flies%2C Artificial."&sort=year&page=1&pagesize=100&ft=ft This is a general search for the subject of artificial flies in books with full access. Due to waiting for copyright to expire, the full access books are older, but still a great resource. Try other search terms, too. The Salmon books often have color plates and are really good. thanks for any help in finding out more about this technique and enjoy looking at the books. LisaLou
  14. Tube Fly Pepperell Crafts Pony Bead Lacing - frosted- (Hollow soft PVC tubing, 2mm OD x 1mm ID, does melt, black also available at Hobbylobby locally. Many colors, glitter, glow available online. Very inexpensive, soft and flexible, giving it a try… bead (which I now see is plastic painted metallic) Nylon thread - clear Underbody layer and Tail - Artiste metallic embroidery floss - Heaven body- Stitch Soak Scrub nylon looped yarn - Coconut milk with single strand of opal greenish toned tinsel laced into it. This nylon yarn comes in many colors. Locally sourced at Meijer and HL. feather hackle Grey Hen cape 3/8 organza ribbon stripped from each side, palmered up body with concentration of fibers at throat and underbody to simulate legs. Sally Hansen HAN I believe the Stitch Soak Scrub nylon looped yarn has really great possibilities, so I included a picture since once it was wrapped, the design of the product is hard to see. It could be used for posts too, I think. The bit of tinsel is still threaded in. It created noticeable and better depth with the tinsel. LisaLou
  15. LionBrand has synthetic chenille that glows in the dark. It is available in white, lavender, bright green and grey. However it is a flat yarn, not fully round like a bottle brush. The white is by far the most luminescent, with green then lavender. Grey is meh. I got mine locally at Meijer, but many craft and big box stores carry LionBrand and it’s commonly available online. There are some reviews with videos at the link. I was going to experiment with braiding or weaving to get a rounder profile, because the glow is pretty cool. It wraps around a hook or tube nice and fluffy when palmered. I also have the Natural glow yarn (normal non fuzzy yarn) which is also used in the video of the toy with the big ears. natural glows well and the strands can be split down to smaller threads. Natural and Chenille are made out of polyester. Good luck, LL (ps. I rolled them around a bit under a light, so they do look a little different, but they are in the same order. Edit) https://www.lionbrand.com/products/diy-glow-chenille-yarn https://www.lionbrand.com/products/diy-glow-natural?_pos=1&_sid=82f9e6532&_ss=r
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