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Fly Tying


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About Permitcapt

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    Advanced Member

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    Permit, redfish, bonefish, tarpon, boxfish
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  • Location
    Apalachicola, FL

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  1. I am long retired from guiding there. Many great guides. Difficult to book them in Spring, as it is Prime Time. Here are some names to look at their websites and choose whomever you like. Justin Rea, Peter Heydon, Drew Delashmit, John O’Hearn, Simon Becker
  2. Here is what worked for me “most often” when I guided in the Lower Keys years ago, and what still works for me in Flamingo and Apalachicola. The Brown Mariah and the Chartreuse Toad. Of course there are a multitude of different patterns, colors, and sizes, and many work some of the time. But, when one only has a small window of opportunity, one needs to go to oft-proven methods. Good luck, and have fun!
  3. Today, most people will suggest the "Toad" variety of tarpon flies. I still do well with traditionally tyed flies with splayed tails. The addition of maribou helps. Bleached grizzly with tan is always a killer, mimicing crabs. Chartreuse is great. Black and purple for low light conditions. Redfish eat all sorts of flashy flies: spoon fly, heavily-dressed clouser types, crab flies, etc. Start simple, and grow your box from there.
  4. Oh Uncle Bob, great report, especially since my fishing buddy and I cancelled a week trip there this week. We had a houseboat rented, so the Park cancelled us, as we did them. We cancelled because we are smart enough to not risk being in contact with anybody, including ourselves. Your report would have been much better if you stayed apolitical. You blamed one president for closing the gates in the first part, but didn't blame the other president for closing the gates in the second part. Here on this fishing forum, most of us would rather talk about fishing, not your political proclivities. We all have our own as well. Thank you.
  5. Yup, thought it all through and wrote about it in the article. Weighted beads from plastic craft store beads to heavy tungsten beads give the tyer multiple opportunities to customize to your needs.
  6. Here are the steps for my new Rolling Weed-guard, as seen in the Summer 2018 issue of Fly Tyer Magazine. The first picture was too big to upload, but it simply showed crimping the end of some hard mono, like Mason. Creating the Rolling Weed Guard, by Edward Michaels 1) After cutting a 3 inch piece of 20-30# mono, crimp one end flat with smooth-jawed forceps. Serrated jaws will not flatten the mono as well. 2) Wrap the crimped end of the mono with thread, covering it completely. Secure the wraps with a small dab of Solarez Bone or head cement. 3) Thread your choice of bead onto the mono. 4) Form a loop and adjust it’s size. Although the bead can touch the hook point, the mono loop must not be that long, or hook-ups will be prevented. 5) Bend loop forward toward the hook eye to it’s desired position and secure in place with thread wraps on both sides of the loop. 6) Crimp mono where the second tie-in point will be and secure on the opposite side of the hook shank with thread wraps. The flattened mono can be folded-over (as in this picture) for added security and then trimmed. 7) Apply a dab of Solarez Bone or head cement. 8) Finish fly by applying UV light.
  7. Many great flies were tied by thousands of tyers back before genetic hackle. You guys are splitting hairs. Get the color and size you want, and buy what you are comfortable paying for. Whatever you get, you will be tying with better materials than all the tying legends used 40 years ago.
  8. I quit trying to post, because it was so difficult. My pics were all rejected because they were too large. Like most consumers, if I face too many hurdles, I just go someplace else to spend my time.
  9. Uncle Bob, And what lure did the drum hit, please? That is one species that I have never caught on a Gulp! I talked to the head scientist for Gulp! this past weekend at Apalachicola Farmers Mkt, and he dodged the question, although he said it was designed for redfish, around Lanark Reef. The other species I have thrown Gulp! at many times without a take is sheepshead. Edward
  10. All advice so far is good. Any equipment can be used, and has been for a long time. Yes, there is expensive gear that is made to resist salt damage, but it only delays damage. Rinse your equipment daily, always. If you do not expect to use it the next day, then wash it down with Dawn as Uncle Mike said. I travel to fish a lot. The best case for a rod can be made cheaply at home. I use the light-gauge pvc of a diameter that suits the number of rods that I intend to carry. Cement an end cap on one end, and leave the other loose. Drill a small hole in each cap so a vacuum will not be created when you close it. I like to screw on a carrying handle using some old nylon strap from a piece of junk in the closet. Leave enough slack so your hand can comfortably fit through. Put the screws on with the heads inside the tube, so you don't scratch your rods. Grind off any of the screw that extends past the lock-nut washers. Additionally I run alternating bands of brightly colored tape around the tube, spaced every several inches. This prevents someone from taking your rod case off the plane and walking with it. I have seen that happen more than once, especially in the Bahamas. Good luck.
  11. I love that question! Many have pondered it before you and I also. I make eyes by the hundreds at a sitting, and I use them on most of my patterns whether for myself or my customers. I use them because I like the way that they look on a shrimp, or a crab, or a baitfish. Whether they improve the efficacy of the pattern or not, I am not certain, but I think so, and I hope so. When a target fish wants to eat I don't think that eyes make a difference. When a target fish doesn't want to eat, I don't think that eyes make a difference. When a target fish is not sure whether it wants to eat or not, eyes might make a difference. My recipe for eyes is: Cut mono or fluorocarbonin 1 inch strips in whatever diameter you like. My favorite is usually around 20# so it is stiff enough, but not too thick to add bulk to the thread wraps. Then I touch it too a candle flame to ignite it. Then poke the burning end into a solid object like a table top or anything you choose. It will now have a widened and flat end. String a #8 bead, your color of choice, on the strip. Lastly, dip the bead into Solarez thick UV resin and hit it with the light. All done, and beautiful.
  12. Permitcapt


    That is a rather grotesque amount of dead fish. Try limiting your kill next time, not killing your limit. Leave some for the next generation.
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