Fly Tying Beginner

[flyfly 0]

Ordered my fly tying gear. Wapsi Deluxe Fly Tying Kit, nice rotating vice, ceramic bobbin, whip finisher, dubbing, krystal flash, scud back, and a trout fly book. Can't wait to get started. I bought cortland magnifying glasses that go onto my glasses. Just worried about all the up close stuff. It seems like it will be tough to work on something like scuds. I am just excited to tie my first fly. I'm thinking about the wooly bugger. Any tips?

[Bugsy 0]

Use an ample and comfortable light source, and make sure the background is clear of clutter and provides sufficient contrast. Some tyers use a "profile plate," while others use foam core boards, card stock, or other home remedies for backdrops.

 

Have fun.

[Gene L 0]

The best background I've ever used was the leftover materials from a framing/matting shop. The stuff comes in different colors and is stiff and if you know the owner, is free as it's basically waste. Or it will cost you a couple of bucks.

 

Sounds like you're ready to go. Don't worry too much about the up close stuff; it's buying trouble to do so. I'm sure it will be just fine with what you have. Fish don't care a whole lot if a fly isn't museum quality.

[Goose77 0]

Good for you...the excitement in your note is cool. Good luck to you and "get goin'." Bugger is a fun and productive choice. Cheers, Ed

[FlaFly 0]

Like Bugsy said.... try to avoid clutter. Believe me this is the only time in your career as a fly tyer that you will be able to avoid clutter... it just seems to go with the territory.

[flytire 0]

Any tips?

 

take fly tying lessons

 

it shortens the learning curve

[Crackaig 0]

X2 for hands on instruction. Even the best video, photo sequence, or even advice on here is given without being able to see what you are doing. Without that it is always difficult to help. Its a bit like trying to fill a bottle with water by standing 10 feet away, and throwing a bucket of water at it.

 

Cheers,

C.

[Dave G. 0]

First mistake every new tyer makes, too loose or too tight a bobbin. Too loose and you ever increase the working distance from the hook tothe bobbin as you wrap and lose thread control along with too loose a wrap.. Too tight and you have better control right up to the ;point that the thread starts to fray and ultimately it keeps breaking off. You want the thread to wind on the hook easy and smoothly come off the spool without either of the above scenerios happening lol,

 

Second mistake. Too tight or too loose a grip on the hook from the vise jaws. You want it just tight enough that the hook doesn't slip when giving it a good push by hand. Tighter than that causes premature wear on the vise and or jaws, too loose well the hook keeps slipping.

 

Wooly Bugger: never tied a one that did not catch fish but some are more productive than others. All black is always a good choice, all olive can be good. The best and most deadly ( for me) is my weighted Peakock Herl body and Grizzly hen hackled and black tailed one though. The fatter and more ugly looking all the better, I've caught fish regularly all over NE on those. But get a good Hex hatch going and olive is king. In cold water with rainbows I like a red body and grizzly tied small, even on a #14 hook. Big 3-4lb browns in Feb if the pond is open by chance, then they like a black/brown combo best fished on full sink line. You learn your local waters in due time.

[FlaFly 0]

Dave... you bring up a good point. All my bobbins just have springy wire arms that provide whatever tightness they come with, unless I physically spread them out to loosen them a bit. Seems like an "adjustable drag" bobbin would be a good idea. Does anyone make an adjustable bobbin? (at a beginner's price?)

[Bryon Anderson 0]

Dave... you bring up a good point. All my bobbins just have springy wire arms that provide whatever tightness they come with, unless I physically spread them out to loosen them a bit. Seems like an "adjustable drag" bobbin would be a good idea. Does anyone make an adjustable bobbin? (at a beginner's price?)

Rite brand bobbins have an adjustable disc-drag type mechanism. A lot of production tiers wear by them and they sell for around $25, I believe.

 

http://www.ritebobbin.com

 

[Gene L 0]

I've got a couple of Rite bobbins and they're really great with extremely fine thread. The only thing I don't like about them is the missing arm on one side. There's a slight learning curve there.

[FlaFly 0]

Thanx Bryon

[SilverCreek 0]

Dave... you bring up a good point. All my bobbins just have springy wire arms that provide whatever tightness they come with, unless I physically spread them out to loosen them a bit. Seems like an "adjustable drag" bobbin would be a good idea. Does anyone make an adjustable bobbin? (at a beginner's price?)

 

 

Loosen the arms and then control the tension by winding the thread around one of the arms off the bobbin before it enters the bobbin tube. The number of wraps around the arm determines the amount of tension of the thread.

[flyfly 0]

Dave... you bring up a good point. All my bobbins just have springy wire arms that provide whatever tightness they come with, unless I physically spread them out to loosen them a bit. Seems like an "adjustable drag" bobbin would be a good idea. Does anyone make an adjustable bobbin? (at a beginner's price?)

Looked at the Rite Bobbins. They are about 20 dollars, but people say they are well worth it.

[FlaFly 0]

$24.45 on Amazon. Looks good. That's certainly affordable.