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Everything posted by SilverCreek

  1. No. I have a friend that shot one on his property. He prepped the skin and stretched it and gave it to me. I also have an entire Australian possum, muskrat and red fox pelts. I bought the female fox (vixen) fox so I could get the pinkish urine stained fur to tie up Art Flick's Hendrickson pattern. "Many anglers believe that Steenrod used the urine-stained underbelly from a vixen red fox, because that amazingly descriptive material is so memorable. But it was Art Flick who later suggested this material in his writings, not Steenrod." https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/fly-fishing-the-hendrickson-hatch/151976 "Interestingly, this classic Catskill pattern includes one of the most unusual materials: urine-stained belly fur of a red fox." https://flyfishersinternational.org/Portals/0/FlyoftheMonth/PreviousIssues/1998-12 December - Hendrickson.pdf?ver=2012-03-12-225750-000
  2. I use woodchuck hair when I need a more imitative and realistic wing profile for a caddis pattern. Woodchuck hair is solid and will not flair so it ties down flatter and more tent like. I got the idea from Eric Leiser's Woodchuck Caddis. It has palmered hackle for floatation. Eliminate the hackle and tie in the wing at the head of the fly in the pattern below and you get a very good caddis profile. http://www.flytierspage.com/gnocentini/woodchuck_caddis.htm
  3. He is using the loose loop method of tying down the EHC hair. The instructions are on this post. https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/cdc-and-elk-two-minute-tying-video.902492/#post-1554501
  4. He's very lucky young man. 👍
  5. Thanks for the compliments. I do appreciated them. Here's one additional tip. Notice where I tied off the hair. It is well back of the eye of the hook. Note that this leaves the hook eye easily accessible for threading the eye with your tippet. In the EHC, the clump of hair in front of the tie off is supposed to represent the head of the caddis fly so leave space in front of that for the hook eye.
  6. The elk hair caddis was designed as a fast water fly and to imitate the skittering caddis by twitching and skating the fly on the hackle tips. It was not meant to be a slower water fly. Al Troth, when he first published his EHC, noted that the EHC should be tied with hair that did not flair, but this type of hair is difficult to find especially for smaller patterns and now virtually every EHC now is tied with a prominent flared wing. Did you also know that the EHC is not in the Gary LaFontaine's "Caddisflies”? The reason is that the EHC, as it is most often tied, is not a very realistic caddis fly pattern. Most EHC pattern are tied with hollow hair which flairs. When tied, this hair will flair up and form a wing that extend up over the body rather than down flat as a real caddis fly. Gary Lafontaine makes the following observation about the dry fly patterns in his book, “There are some notable absences in the selections. There are no patterns with upright wings. This type generally recommended as an imitation of a fluttering caddisfly is not very effective when trout are feeding selectively, even if the adults are fluttering. When the natural begins unfolding its wings it usually flies off very quickly and such a transitory moment is not worth imitating. The tent wing fly is usually better because it imitates the insect at rest.” The second caddis bible is Larry Solomon and Eric Leiser's "The Caddis and the Angler" published in 1977. "The Caddis and the Angler" has the elk hair caddis pattern on pg 200. You will notice that the hair on the pattern is tent like and does NOT flair much. See below for Al Troth's original EHC: During an interview with Al Troth before his death, Al's son talks about his father's EHC. Go to 5:35 in the video below and you will see the EHC as it is meant to be tied. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WR27csOJPVc My version tied with low flair hair. Why then is the EHC so popular? Well it is a great fast water fly and a fluttering caddis fly, it is easily tied, it is a high floater, it is easy to see, and it is durable. But is is NOT IMHO the best fly for calm waters. It is not an all around fly. It can be a better fly for calm waters if you clip the bottom hackles off flat to the hook, and clip off some of flaired deer hair to give the wing a flatter profile. Here are three keys to a flatter EHC wing: 1. Selection of the right hair/material for the wing. Since hollow hair flares, select material that is less hollow. Either less hollow deer/elk hair; another animal like woodchuck, squirrel tail; synthetic material like polypropylene. Test the deer/elk hair. Do the pinch test to see how the hair flares. Most of the pre-packed hair is not very good or EHCs. Occasionally you find good package, but that is the exception. I wrote about proper hair selection here: http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-fly-tying-discussions/251936-selecting-deer-elk-hair-comparaduns.html 2. Learn the proper technique to tie in the hair. Use the pinch with the noose method: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=81429&p=630123 3. If you must tie an EHC with hollow hair, bend the hook at the tie in point so the flared hair or wing material lies parallel to the body. http://www.garyborger.com/2011/06/08/poly-caddis/ Here is a tying tip to make the wings flatter. If you dub the body so that it has a "reverse taper" so that it is thicker at the tail of the fly and then narrows at the head end of the fly, the wing will lie flatter on the body. Then there will be no "bump" at the front edge of the dubbing to lift the wing up. Another way to tie the fly with a flat wing is to bend the front 1/3 of the hook up at a 30 degree angle. Then tie the hair on this bent section. The 30 degree up angle will angle the tied hair DOWN 30 degrees and it will lie flat over the back of the fly. Tie it in the manner that Gary Borger ties his Poly Caddis Sorry for hijacking the thread. If the above makes you examine how you tie the EHC and how the wing really should look, all the better. Hopefully, the next time you try an EHC in the right color and size and the fish refuse, you'll think about this post and trim the fly.
  7. I have not bought a cape in over 10 to maybe 15 years. The capes I have I can use for very large or for tiny flies. The most cost effective hackle for my needs is to buy a the pro grade Whiting or Whiting Hebert Miner pro grade saddles. Saddle hackles will tie only a limited range of sizes. The greatest number saddle hackles in any one saddle will be center on one size with then a spread of 1-2 sizes larger and smaller. So if you tie mainly small size 18 flies you can buy a saddle centered on size 18 and it will have size 16 and size 20 hackle as well and perhaps some size 14 and size 22. The most popular size for a dry fly is size 14 and the most popular dry fly sold in the USA is a size 14 Adams. So I buy size 14 prograde saddles and I use my capes if I need hackles that are larger or smaller than the pro grade has. Prograde saddles and necks are the most cost effective way to ties flies. The cost per fly is lowest when you buy prograde hackle as this comparison of hackles has shown. http://www.flyfishfood.com/2014/09/hackle-comparisons.html
  8. I never buy hackle that I cannot examine. If you can examine the hackle, do so and look for hackles of the size you are going to use. The most popular size for dry flies is a size 14 so look for sizes 12-18 and especially size 14. When you find a size 14 look for bare spots next to it and if that area is plucked, do not buy the hackle.
  9. I agree with you Mike and your observations are correct but I do not agree with using the term suspended for flies that are sinking because the definition of "suspend" is "to keep from falling or sinking by some invisible support (such as buoyancy)" https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/suspend Technically sinking flies are not suspended because they are sinking. What you are describing is mostly due to hydrodynamic drag, mainly due to the fly and some due to the tippet, resisting the gravitational force just like aerodynamic drag on something falling through the air.
  10. Note that the video is limited to flies that are SUSPENDED below an indicator. Suspended patterns do not have 6 degrees of freedom. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_degrees_of_freedom The flies are being pulled downstream by the indicator because the indicator is on the surface of the water which moves faster than the water near the bottom of the river. So they are limited in the forward and backward direction The flies also are suspended and cannot move in the downward direction to follow the contour of the stream bottom. They also are limited in the ability to move laterally right and left in the stream.
  11. https://jimsflyco.com/CapesAndSaddles/Cart-Brands.aspx?dID=5
  12. George, Sometimes the inability to tie a better fly depends on the quality of the materials you have at hand. I think that is part of the issue with the fly you tied. If you look at the quality of the hair and hackle on the the "good" simulators posted, you will see that the materials used are of prime quality.
  13. Randall Kauffmann is most often credited with originating the Stimulator but the history of the fly goes back to Jim Slattery who was a member of the [email protected] mailing list. Jim is now the owner of Jim's Fly Co. which is on the banks of the Madison River between Hebgen Lake and Quake Lake on Campfire Lane. https://jimsflyco.com/Default.aspx So credit is given to the correct originator, here is the history of the Stimulator: "Randall Kaufmann is often credited with the pattern design, however, it may be the design of Jim Slattery of West Yellowstone, MT. Jim indicates that he designed the fly around 1980 while he lived near the Musconetcong River in New Jersey. He first named it the "Fluttering Stonefly", then changed it to "Stimulator" after a New York City Punk band that was very popular at the time. His inspiration came from an earlier fly, the Sofa Pillow, designed by Pat Barnes in the 1940's, with an orange floss body, a red squirrel tail wing and a red duck quill tail. ……. Jim's design had a longer thorax where the thorax and abdomen were about equal lengths, similar to the natural. He used Deer Hair for the wing and tail. The tail hairs were stacked uniformly but the wing hairs were not, to give the wing a more fuller appearance. His first Stimulator had a golden yellow olive body and a orange thorax. The contrasting coloration were a key feature to this design. Jim used two Blue Dun Hackles palmered through the abdomen and the thorax. The hackle through the thorax was palmered about 2/3's through so that the head would have no hackle at all. Using a palmered hackled also allowed the thorax color to be quite visible. Jim's Stimulator came to the West Coast with a group of flyfishermen that Jim sold his flies to and reached commercial tier, Randall Kaufmann, in 1980. Randall desired to make modifications to the pattern while keeping the same name. He certainly popularized the pattern through his books and articles. Randall introduced the Yellow Stimulator pattern in 1980. His version of the Stimulator has a yellow body of Antron Yarn or Haretron and an orange thorax of Angora Goat. Randall went back to the Elk Hair as a wing and tail. He also shortened the thorax so that it would be about 1/3 of the total body length. The head was represented by thread wraps just behind the eye with the Fire Orange thread. The body hackle was ginger or badger and the thorax hackle was Grizzly. Rather than hand bending a Streamer Hook, Randall preferred to use the newly developed Tiemco 200R. Tied in sizes 6-8 , it can imitate both the salmon fly and golden stones or, when tied in size 12-14, the Stimulator can also be used to imitate Little Yellow Stoneflies." https://flyfishingthesierra.com/stim.htm
  14. https://www.joggles.com/art-journals-and-mixed-media/angelina-fibers
  15. Upnorthtier will have to tell us but from the photos, I think the upper right would be my first choice and the upper left my second choice for coloration. In my experience with Cree, the darker banded hackles look better when wrapped on the fly.
  16. I got both of these for under $100. I was on a list back when Whiting used take names for Cree hackle and when your name came up, they shipped the hackle to the closest Whiting dealer. You could not choose whether you wanted a neck or saddle or the quality of the hackle. When your name came up you had to take what came up whether it was a saddle or a neck. My closest "dealer" was a national sport shop chain that had a small fishing dept that carried Whiting 100's only. They carried no capes or saddles of any kind. I met with manager and he told me that he had no codes under which to sell me the hackle so he charged me what Whiting charged him. I think it was about $70 at the time. The reason I got both a neck and a saddle was that the person in front of me on the list didn't want what came up when he was next in line so Whiting contacted me and asked if I wanted both. II said, you bet I do.
  17. Not only is silk is translucent when wet but in addition, the silk floss in the original pattern is Pearsals which is no longer available. The Partridge and Orange is one of those pattern that depends on the genuine materials being used. Not only is the floss no longer available, so is the thread. The other colors are going for $25 a spool for the thread. https://jimsflyco.com/ECommerce/Pearsall-Thread/Pearsall-Gossamer-Silk-Thread?bId=12
  18. So do I. We tie and trade flies. Since everyone that attends want to be there, we have a good time. During the summers, out TU chapter reserves one of the covered shelters at a riverside park so we can both tie and fish. We give casting and fishing lessons. Our TU chapter provides the burgers, beer and soft drinks.
  19. My biggest score was these two jungle cock capes
  20. Well you could try what I do sometimes on a heavy trico spinner fall is to fish a "double fly" which is two flies tied on one larger hook. Here's a pattern from the trout Shop in Craig, Montana on the Missouri below Holter Dam. They get massive trico spinner falls. For big trout on tiny flies, they use a double pattern. The other thing is to imitate clumps of flies as we do for midges. Tie a Griffith's Gnat type of fly but in the colors to match the hatch.
  21. Plano Boxes with one tray on top and the rest empty. This is the box I use. I also have a fold up "luggage" wheeled carrier so when I go to fly fishing/tying conclaves, I can stack the boxes at my car and wheel them into the venue.
  22. I have a simple system. I have 5 tackle boxes. One contains my vise, tools, hooks, etc that I need to tie. The other 4 contain materials. Depending on what I want to tie, I take one of the 4 material tackle boxes along with my "tool box". I use those same tackle boxes when I set up to tie at home.
  23. They all have "legs". The sunken ones have crystal flash and the dry ants have hackle.
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