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Everything posted by SilverCreek

  1. Thread manufacturers mislead and Veevus is one thread manufacturer that I do not trust for the reasons below (see photo). Here's the deal. The strength of a tying thread depends on the material and the amount of that material used to make that thread. The aught (eg, 8/0) system of denoting thread thickness is NOT A STANDARD. Manufacturers can label their thread whatever they want. This has led to "aught creep" with manufacturers using higher aughts to fool tyers into thinking that their thread is thinner than another manufacturer's lower aught. Threads should be labeled by denier which is a measurement of the actual amount of material in the thread. http://www.swtu.org/pdfs/fly_tying/Threads.pdf If seeing is believing consider the hook below which has been wrapped with 40 turns of the thread. Compare the Uni 8/0, to the UTC 70, to the Benecchi 12/0, to the Gordon Griffiths 14/0, to the Veevus 14/0 and 12/0. These threads are all about 70 denier polyester and they have the identical bulk and they ALL BREAK within an oz. of 14 oz. tension. Why is Veevus 14/0 and 16/0 essentially the same? Why is UNI 8/0 thinner (less material) that Veevus 14/0 and Veevus 16/0? Pay attention to what material the thread is made from and the color, whether it is bonded or not bonded, and whether it is flat or twisted. Identical diameters of the same material have about the same breaking strength. It is very difficult for a thread maker who buys very little actual material compared to clothing and major sewing thread manufacturers to find a polyester, nylon, or gsp that is stronger per mass than than some other manufacturers polyester, nylon or gsp. The material determines how vibrant the colors are, whether the thread stretches, and the breaking strength. Find a thread you like and learn to tie with it. Here are some more "thread" threads from NAFF: http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-fly-tying-discussions/362744-need-stronger-thread.html http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-fly-tying-discussions/354747-veevus.html http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-fly-tying-discussions/365577-how-important-right-hook-thread.html
  2. I had an infestation of gophers and moles in my backyard. I had a professional exterminator company come and remove them. They used the GopherHawk traps. I bought myself several sets and and now I can eliminate them myself. You need at least one set of probe, wedge and traps and then more traps as needed. I actually bought 2 "sets" just in case I broke or lost part of a"set" and then I got another trap. So I have 3 traps. These things really work!! Rather than using the probe to locate the underground tunnel, the exterminator angled the trap toward the hole so the trigger of the trap crossed the exit hole.
  3. A man is in a bar and falling off his stool every couple of minutes. He is obviously drunk. So the bartender says to another man in the bar: "Why don't you be a good Samaritan and take him home." The man takes the drunk out the door and to his car and he stumbles at least ten times. They drive along and the drunk points out his house to the man. He stops the car and the drunk stumbles up the steps to his house with the man. The drunk's wife greets them at the door: "Why thank you for bringing him home for me, but where's his wheelchair?"
  4. What hook size is that fly tied on?
  5. I've never used Kapok dubbing but I see no reason why it would not work on parachute flies. When I tie, I like to dub without using any dubbing wax. Dubbing wax gums up the dubbing and makes it harder to make adjustments to the dubbing noodle and move the noodle up or down the tying thread. I wrote a tying "tip" that describes the "wax less" dubbing technique I use. It was published in Fly Tyer Magazine in 2002. I suggest you try this technique. Here is the article: "Noted Wisconsin fly tyer Royce Dam - FFF's 1994 Buz Buszek Award Winner taught me the single most helpful dubbing technique I have ever learned. It’s a technique for dubbing tight dry fly bodies without using dubbing wax. I’d like to pass it on. The directions are for a right-handed tyer. Lefties will need to make the reversal. I am assuming that you wrap thread around the hook in the normal fashion by wrapping away from yourself over the top of the hook and then back underneath, and so on. Wrap the hook with thread, tie in a tail and take the tread back to the back of the hook so that you are ready to dub the body. Do not wax the thread. For a right-hander, dub the fur clockwise on the thread as seen from the top of the hook. The clockwise direction is critical, as you will see later. Taper the dubbing so that you have a fine dubbing tip at the top of the thread. Unwrap one or two wraps of thread from the tie in point and push the dubbing up the thread so that the fine point of dubbing is at the tie in point. If you wax the thread, the dubbing will stick to the thread, and it will be difficult to advance it up the thread to the tie in point. Take one or two wraps of thread to fix the tip of dubbing at the tie in point. This wrap traps the end of the dubbing so that is cannot spin free. Grasp the bottom end of the dubbing, and dub/twist it clockwise on the thread. It should spin around the thread getting tighter and tighter since the tip is fixed under the first wrap. Hold on to the bottom of the dubbing so that it cannot untwist and wrap your dubbing forward on the hook. With each wrap of the thread, the dubbing and thread will twist tighter and tighter so that you end up with a very tight, compact and tapered body. The wax-less technique takes advantages of the fact that as you wind the dubbing around the hook shank, you introduce an additional twist into the dubbing. The dubbing twists one revolution for each wrap. The secret to forming a tightly dubbed body is to use this additional twisting to your advantage." For nymphs allow the dubbing to untwist as you wrap to get just the amount of bugginess rather than a tight compact body. You can precisely control the diameter of the dubbing as you wind. Without wax you can push the dubbing up the thread to widen the dubbing noodle or pull down to narrow the dubbing. Or you can twisting tighter if you used too much dubbing to narrow the body or allowing it to untwist to widen it. By using these two additional techniques you get exactly the tapered body you want. 100% synthetics are more difficult but they can be dubbed around the tying thread using this method. They tend to uncoil if you do not hold the bottom of the material with your left hand between twists of your right hand." I rarely have to use a dubbing loop. The reason is that once you have the material locked into a dubbing loop, you CANNOT rearrange it to thin some areas and thicken others. If you dub without wax and use the method above, you can let the dubbing unwind and crowd the material to add or thin the material to subtract to get the taper you want. Dubbing loops will give you a rougher spikier looking body. If you want this appearance using the method above, go over the body with a dubbing brush. I use a 22 caliber cleaning tip. You may not believe me but I have seen Royce tie his mouse pattern which he calls an "arctic shrew" WITHOUT shaping the body with a razor or a pair of scissors. I think he uses caribou hair and he layers so the shrew/mouse body tapers naturally. He leaves the body unclipped so the fine hair tips look like fur over the fly. The only shaping of the fly he does is to take a razor blade to the bottom of the fly to cut out any projecting hair flat against the bottom of the hook. He does the same thing with a Muddler Minnow. Royce tied the head so it is layered and shaped without clipping and shaping the head after tying as most tyers do. He stacks the hair, and used his experience to tie the hair in and the head is shaped without any trimming after tying. You have to see it to believe it. I have posted some of Royce's flies below to show what is possible with skill and dedication. Royce passed a few years ago but Royce was no ordinary fly tier. He tied full dress salmon flies, salt water patterns, packed hair bass bugs. Here are some of his shadow box flies that I have displayed in my tying room. The Buz Buszek Award is the most prestigious fly tying award of the International Federation of Fly Fishers. https://www.flyfishersinternational.org/About-Us/Awards/Fly-Tying-Awards#:
  6. The instructions are great but your fly is tied on a jig style of fly hook like the one below.
  7. Reminds of when I drove about 50 miles each way to work at a hospital once a week. There was a trout stream that was dammed to form a pond and there were brook trout in the stream going into the pond and leaving the pond. So during lunch I would fly fish the stream to C&R the brookies. One time I dropped a brookie into the stream and an otter grabbed it. The otter was missing a paw and I presume it had once been caught in a trap but got away.
  8. I doubt it since there are people who own real polar bear rugs.
  9. Thanks for the nice comment. Glad you enjoyed the post.
  10. I've never waded a trout stream and wondered why lost flies have not biodegraded. All the crap along trout stream is from worm containers, plastic drink containers, and general garbage that fishers who packed it in have failed to pack out. The few times I have found a lost fly, usually on a tree branch, I take and see if I can at least reuse the hook. I usually don't comment on threads like this one but buddy, you are on the money with your post.
  11. I always use fly fishing tippet material for the tippet section of leaders. The problem with spin fishing line is that it is stiffer and weaker for identical diameters compared to tippet material. You can see that Rio tippet material of 0.010" diameter is rated at 13 lb and the identical diameter of Berkeley Trilene is rated at 8 lbs. The Rio is 62% stronger. Why skimp on the weakest connection to the fish. Penny wise and pound foolish! Why save pennies on a length of tippet material when you have spent $$$ to on the rest of your fly fishing tackle and $$ on gasoline to get to your fishing spot?
  12. We have huge hatches of Hexagenia Limbata on our local Wisconsin streams and rivers. As a result, John Nebel of Wisconsin, invented the best Hex pattern I have ever seen or fished. He called it the Flex Hex. The problem is that the Hexagenia Limbata is the largest mayfly in North America. The naturals are so long that when they are tied along the length of a single hook, the trout often pushes the fly out of the way during the take. Here is a photo of a Hex on a ruler from Troutnut.com. The body is a full 2 inches in length! The naturals will squirm and contort themselves on the water. The do not always maintain the straight body profile as in the photo above. Here is another photo from TroutNut that shows how the natural often bends it's body, Here is a Flex Hex that I tied. The wing still needs to be trimmed. You can see how the fly would fold up when it is taken. You can also see how the fly can land with the rear section flopped to the side as in the photo of the natural above. The Flex Hex is the only pattern that can imitate this contorted natural! I have posted this pattern before and the links to the Flex Hex pattern are at the bottom of this post of mine on the thread below:
  13. Parachute flies are NOT actually DRY FLIES. The parachute hackle is ABOVE the fly body and since the hackle supports the fly, the fly body is IN THE FILM. Gary Borger published an article in Fly Fisherman Magazine titled, "Film Flies - The Five Stages of Insect Emergence and The Best Flies to Imitate Them" Unfortunately, the original is now now longer available and the wen archive has only the introduction and none of the illustrations https://web.archive.org/web/20101230025309/http://www.flyfisherman.com/content/film-flies Here is where the parachute fly fits: “TStage 3. The insect pulls its head out of the shuck, followed almost immediately by the legs. At this point it enters stage 3, which is matched perfectly by the universal emerger: a Parachute Adams (or other fly with an upright parachute post such as the Klinkhåmer). [See “The Klinkhåmer Special” in the Dec. 2006 issue for more details. The Editor.] All three of the surface-emerging insect groups look the same during this stage. That’s why the Parachute Adams is the world’s number 1 dry fly: it matches any mayfly, caddis, or midge in stage 3. Most fly fishers think of the Parachute Adams as an adult dun imitation, but in reality it is an emerger. In stage 3 the nymphal or pupal body is just under the film and the legs are spread out on the surface to support the body. The body sticks almost straight up, with the wings plastered tightly along the top of the thorax as they continue pulling up and out of the wing pads. Light reflecting off the upright body with the wings plastered tight along the top, gives the emerging insect a shining, light-colored look.” I've believed from my early days of reading about emergers that naturals in the process of emergence are continuum of metamorphosis. We try to imitate this prices of change with flies which are a single moment in this process. that is why there are soooo many emerger patterns. I happen to believe that parachutes are closer to emerger than the subimago immature adult, so I now tie them with saddle hackle with convex side down, tied off on the post to get the lowest profile I can. Still not convinced? Toss a Parachute Adams in a glass of water and view its position. A more complete explanation is available in Gary's Book, Fishing the Film Here is a an earlier FFNA post on Fishing the Film, in which Fly Bum notes that Gary calls the Parachute Adams "the universal emerger." http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-fly-tying-discussions/135714-reading-fishing-film-gary-borger.html Here is a post on parachute flies from Gary's Blog. http://www.garyborger.com/2016/09/09/parachute-flies-stage-3-emerger/ ""Supporting 30 times its weight" is really misleading for true dry flies. Since the dry fly body is ABOVE the water, the dubbing CANNOT support the fly. To support the fly, Kapok has to be submerged just like it is in life preservers. What it can do is make the fly bodies weigh less, but if the body is not IN the water, it CANNOT FLOAT the fly! Ironically, since a parachute is NOT a dry fly, In your case it can help a parachute lie higher in the film.
  14. Kim. Kapok in life preservers works by lowering the specific gravity of what it attached to just below the SG of water, ie, below 1.0 To do that, Kapok must be SUBMERGED. So Kapok works like a bobber works. If Kapok dubbing was to work by submersion, the fly body would have to be partially sunken. But that is not what we want in a dry fly dubbing. The dry fly must float ON the film if used as dubbing on a parachute fly or if supported by a palmered hackle dry fly, above the film. Fly Floatants work by actually REPELLING water so they support the fly on the film if the fly body hits the water. Water is a polar molecule. Oil is a non polar molecule. Oil and water do not mix because their molecules actually REPEL each other. Here's a post on how fly floatants work http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-discussion/345179-fly-floatants-noobies-what-floats-your-fly.html#post642614
  15. I think you can use regular floatant or powder floatants. As you know, Kapok is much, much lighter than cotton so it should be more naturally bouyant.
  16. The Tabou Caddis emerger is a Steve Sweitzer pattern that he invented when he worked for Whiting hackle. I have tied this pattern since Steve published it. He designed the pattern to use Chicabou pelts what were a new product of Whiting at the time. Here is the original pattern. https://globalflyfisher.com/patterns-tie-better/the-tabou-caddis-emerger HOWEVER, there is no need to buy Chicabou to tie the pattern. I noticed that Chicabou looked a lot like the filoplume (aftershaft feather) from a ringneck pheasant body (church window) feather and adapted the pattern using the ringneck pheasant filoplumes. https://globalflyfisher.com/picture/aftershaft-feathers https://globalflyfisher.com/patterns-tie-better/the-tabou-caddis-emerger
  17. I use the cycle freezing method below: https://globalflyfisher.com/tie-better/cleaning-fly-tying-material "Until proven otherwise, any new material to a collection is to be considered contaminated - no matter what the source. Until proven otherwise, a room of tying materials is contaminated by "bugs" - always be on the lookout. Some bug killers are carciciogenic, so take care in handling and avoid prolonged breathing. Microwawing cannot be depended on to kill eggs, larvae and/or adults. Freezing will kill larvae and adults but cannot be depended upon to kill eggs. To kill, commercial bug sprays can be sprayed/poured onto a rag which is then sealed in a container with buggy materials. Again, this may not kill all eggs. After this process, wash the material to remove the insecticide If moth crystals are used, seal them with the material This fumigates the material It reduces fumes in the storage area. Reduces waste of crystals (slows evaporation). Pararadichlorobenzene kills, naphthalene deters. Specifically for vanegated Carpet Beeles, a way to kill them is to cycle them. Their hatching is cyclic over a period ot about 30-45 days. Place the material into a plastic bag in the freezer for overnight. Then bring the material out and place in a room temperature, dark location for 30-45 days Again place the material back into the freezer. Another solution is to periodically open up the entire room to extremes of hot or cold. For instance during the heat of summer or cold of winter open the window to the room that your tying materials are in. These bugs do not tolerate extremes of hot or cold. Prepare the room accordingly so that nothing is damaged by these extreme climate changes, such as moisture on furniture, etc."
  18. Looks like video links don't imbed for callosa bug either.
  19. Here's my post that explains Gary Borger's Unibody Leader. Go down to post 3 on this page. https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/leader-tying.343201/page-2
  20. Don't you have to use some of the leader to tie on a new tippet when the tippet gets so short you need to replace it? The tippet ring at the junction where the transition section of a leader ends and the tippet begins allows you to add new tippet without shortening the transition section. So it saves on replacing leaders.
  21. That's a big fish on a 4 wt rod. Well Done!
  22. When I paste that exact link, the video automatically embeds. I am puzzled.
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