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SilverCreek

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Everything posted by SilverCreek

  1. You are getting MUCH better. I am getting picky here since I think you did a good job. When I click on the photo, I notice that the fly body has guard hairs sticking out of the dubbing. The original adams was tied with muskrat underfur fur that was untanned and therefore still has the natural oil on the underfur to make it waterproof and help the fly float. Grab the fur between the thumb and forefinger of left hand and cut the fur off at the skin. Now grab the bottom the cut fur with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Now grab the guard hairs, which are the long hairs that stick out and pull them out. That will leave just the soft underfur. Now when you dub the body, there will be no long hairs sticking out. The fly body will be smooth. You can trim the guard hairs off if this fly for a smoother body, The back of dubbed fly body goes Slightly too far back just slightly past where the hook starts to bend. It makes the fly body just slightly too long. I mention this just so you will notice it. These are very MINOR faults and really make no difference on how the fly will fish. So for the next Adams, pick out the guard hairs out of the fubbing, use the proper tail hackle, and dub a slightly thinner body. You have done very well in a short time!
  2. Palmered hackle length on a dry fly should be about 1.5 times the hook gap. Proportions are key. Fly proportions are judged relative to the length of the fly body. The hook length determines body length so measure the length of the material whether it be hackle, wings, or tailing material against the hook to determine where the tie in point is on the material to get the right length on the fly. For example, I tie the hackle on a dry fly about the length of the fly body so to find hackle of the correct length, I measure it against the length of the hook shank. Here is some suggested reading to get you on the right track. http://www.sexyloops.com/flytying/proportion.shtml https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/tying-flies-beautiful-flies/151957 https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/tying-flies-beautiful-flies/151957
  3. Epistemology is the theory of knowledge. It is the study of how we justify what we believe to be true. Even if we did not know that trout see the same colors that we do, the simple fact is that we can only imitate what WE SEE. Suppose that trout could see into the ultraviolet or infrared spectrum. How can we imitate that color if we cannot see that the natural insect reflects colors in that spectrum. The obvious answer is that we cannot. We cannot know what we do not know!
  4. Trout essentially see the same colors that we do but they see very poor detail since the trout retina does not have a macula. Read Gordon Byrnes article on trout vision: https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/how-trout-see/454967
  5. Thanks for the vote of confidence. Here's a post about my resin from a member of The Fly Tying Forum.
  6. John, I wrote some instructions on how to dub fly bodies on the link below with following comment by noted fly tyer Al Beaty.
  7. If your ultimate goal is to tie a fly that the most selective of fish will take as a natural, then you need to do two things very well. The first is to pick out the most realistic pattern and this requires some understanding of what trout look for and what makes for a realistic pattern, The second is the ability to tie the pattern well and that not only includes the ability to tie well BUT also the requirement to have the proper tools, materials, and tying ability. If your goal is also catching that fish, then requires stalking, casting, mending, and strike detection skills as well
  8. To add to what Chugnug posted, the Hockley method of split tails is from my post back in 2017. Bud Hockley of Baltimore Maryland also devised a method of tying spit or fan tails which is both elegant and simple . This method was described in the 1985 September issue (vol 16, issue 6) of Fly Fisherman Magazine, pg 36 by none other than John Betts, the originator of microfibbets. 1. Tie an even number of Betts microfibbets or stiff hackle fibers in the usual manner and overwrap them with thread back to just before the start of the bend of the hook. Give yourself the room for two more wraps of thread before the bend starts. 2. Take a smooth dubbing needle and place it across the hook between the tails and the hook. Slide the needle toward the eye of the hook so that it lifts the tails off the hook. Now wrap two turns of thread around the dubbing needle and the hook as if you were going to tie the needle to the hook. This will slide the two turns of thread under the tail fibers. Gently pull the needle out as you tighten the thread, and guide the thread so that they lie around the hook, but under the tail fibers, and just in back of the thread wraps which tie the tail down. 3. Now take the dubbing needle and place it along side of the hook closest to you with the tip of the needle toward the eye of the hook. There should be a little space between the hook and needle to maneuver the needle. Now take the thread around the needle, and between the hook and the tails, as if you were going to tie the needle to the back of the hook. As you tighten the thread, gently remove the needle and guide the thread so that it comes to lie on top of the two wraps you place in step two. This wrap will further splay the tails from the back of the hook 4. Keep repeating step three to place multiple wraps of thread just at the base of the tails, between the tails and the hook, until the tails begin to fan and split. When you have built up the thread ball, use your fingers to even up and split the tails and elevate them if you want. 5. Now take the thread and take a couple of cross wraps around the tail to hold them in the final position. There you have it. The Hockley method of split or fan tailing a fly without using a dubbing ball. BTW, Hockley uses it for stonefly nymphs as well as dry flies.
  9. John, My premed major at Stanford University was chemistry and I make and sell my own brand of UV resin. I also sell UV lights. I will PM you if you need information on how to purchase Here are some threads from this BB about my products: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78997-silver-creeks-uv-coating/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/80683-uv-resins/ https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/uv-resins.767872/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78049-silver-creek-resin-great-stuff/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78123-a-few-with-silver-creeks-uv/
  10. I like it but I have 2 suggestions. If you are going to use parachute post material for the wings, less is more. Use less material but spread it out and spread the fibers out and fix them in place with UV glue. Note how a real mayfly spinner looks on the water. Suggestion 1 - If you are going to use parachute post material for the wings, less is more. Use less material but spread it out and spread the fibers out and fix them in place with UV glue. Suggestion 2 - However, the best and cheapest material I have found for spinners is white twinkle organza fabric. You can buy a yard of it for several dollars. It works because it sparkles simulating the sparkle of spinner wings. Rather than organza fabric, you can also buy white organza ribbon. Do NOT take the fibers apart. Tie it in as a strip of fabric and then remove the cross threads after the wing is tied it. Leave some cross thread at the base of the wing and this helps maintain spread of the fibers. See the way Gary Borger ties it in this chocolate spinner pattern. Full tying directions here: Gary Borger Twinkle Wing Spinner Pasted Graphic.tiff Pasted Graphic.tiff
  11. I'm surprised that they would include that as a pattern for you to tie. As I said, the most common rust colored fly pattern is the rusty spinner and so I am surprised they did have you tie that one with the rust colored dubbing. It's a pattern that you will use much more often than a rusty parachute. I am going to ask other fly tyers who are are reading this. Any of you have rusty parachutes in your fly boxes?
  12. Have you looked into getting drugs from overseas? Drugs from companies in Canada are cheaper. https://www.singlecare.com/blog/ordering-medications-from-canada/#:
  13. When you google "rusty mayfly patterns" you will find that they are rusty spinner (mayfly imago stage) patterns. https://www.google.com/search?q=rusty+mayfly+patterns+for+trout&sca_esv=d1dc203dc5631f05&sca_upv=1&sxsrf=ACQVn0-qI75aBYBGXYkgogg78Z7fx2PAmg%3A1711804360760&source=hp&ei=yA8IZpyELL7E0PEP7ZqxmAw&iflsig=ANes7DEAAAAAZggd2FhW0hDU2UrQN18y3YcPU5G80oko&oq=rus&gs_lp=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&sclient=gws-wiz#ip=1 Spinners have thin bodies so I would use less dubbing. Trout will take a parachute as a spinner but if they do not clip the front and rear hackle so they form "cross" shape of an imago stage "spent" spinner on the water surface. An even easier spinner pattern is to tie a Catskill variant dry fly and trim off the top and bottom and the fly will be a spinner pattern. There are no "rusty" brown subimago stage mayflies that I know of.
  14. OK, I have reposted what I was going to suggest. Note the narrow "waist" in your fly at the arrow. To prevent that "narrow waist," after tieing in the tail of the fly; bring the thread to the area of the post position and tie in the post first on the hook. Then tie the hackle in and wind it up the post. Make sure the concave side of the hackle is facing the post so that when you wind the hackle down the post later, the convex side of the hacke will face up. This will make the hackle tips face up away from the water and the the fly to lie deeper in the film. A parachute fly is NOT an imitation of the subimago stage of a mayfly. It actually a late stage emerger imitation! With the post and hackle tied in, it will out of the way and you can then dub the body in a continuous smooth contour around the bottom of the post all the way to the hook eye. When dubbing from the post to the hook eye dub sparsely so then you can dub sparsely BACK to the bottom of the post. Now you will have a seamlessly dubbed body from the tail of the fly. Then do the following: Directions for whip finishing on the post. Finish the dubbing so the thread is hanging off the back side of the hook just BEHIND of the post. Then take the thread, and instead of taking it around the hook again, bring it around the post so it is hanging ahead of and on your side (front) of the hook. Now wind the hackle down the post clockwise as seen from the top of the post. When it gets down to the bottom, take the thread around the hackle and post in a clockwise fashion and whip finish on the post. Here’s a video on whip finishing the hackle on the post
  15. He passed in 2018. Here is a link: http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=115453 https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/pressdemocrat/name/john-betts-obituary?id=1641012
  16. Microfibbets are the fibers from artist's paint brushes. I wait until there is a coupon for JoAnns, Michaels, or Hobby Lobby, then buy a wide flat brush. You can color them with a permanent marker if you buy the white brushes. I buy the one below and cut off the handle. Note the tiny parachute fly below with the fan tail of paint brush fibers. Also note that I have cut fibers off the left side of the paint brush. Since the fibers are lined up on the brush, there is no need to "stack" the fibers before tying them in.
  17. SilverCreek

    What’s cooking

    My brother-in-law, John is a retired professional baker and he ran the largest commercial bakery on the East Coast which baked all the Langendorf and Entenmann's baked goods for New York City. I gave him a copy of the original No-Knead-Bread recipe developed by Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery in NYC which was first appeared in the New York Times. He called it the best home-made bread recipe he had ever tried. Original No-Knead Bread recipe. https://bittmanproject.com/recipe/no-knead-bread/ There are now many versions of it including faster wait times but the original is the one we still use. Here are the 3 versions all published by the NYT over the years Recipe: Original No-Knead Bread Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery Time: About 1 1/2 hours plus 14 to 20 hours’ rising 3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting 1/4 teaspoon instant yeast 1 1/4 teaspoons salt Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed. 1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. 2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes. 3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger. 4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack. Yield: One 1 1/2 pound loaf. Speedy No-Knead Bread Time: About 1 hour, plus 4 1/2 hours’ resting 3 cups bread flour 1 packet ( 1/4 ounce) instant yeast 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Oil as needed. 1. Combine flour, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add 1 1/2 cups water and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest about 4 hours at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. 2. Lightly oil a work surface and place dough on it; fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest 30 minutes more. 3. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8- quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under dough and put it into pot, seam side up. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. 4. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack. Yield: 1 big loaf. Fast No-Knead Whole Wheat Bread Time: About 1 hour, plus 5 hours’ resting (October 8, 2008) 2 cups whole wheat flour 1/2 cup whole rye flour 1/2 cup coarse cornmeal 1 teaspoon instant yeast 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Oil as needed. 1. Combine flours, cornmeal, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add 1 1/2 cups water and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest about 4 hours at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. 2. Oil a standard loaf pan (8 or 9 inches by 4 inches; nonstick works well). Lightly oil your hands and shape dough into a rough rectangle. Put it in pan, pressing it out to the edges. Brush top with a little more oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest 1 hour more. 3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake bread about 45 minutes, or until loaf reaches an internal temperature of 210 degrees. Remove bread from pan and cool on a rack. Yield: 1 loaf.
  18. You can go to my post on this link: https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/selecting-deer-or-elk-hair-for-comparaduns.251936/
  19. Did you not write in your OP: "Criticism welcome" I did post how to purchase good deer and elk hair; but I deleted it since you are apparently not interested, and I seem to have wasted my time.
  20. I've tried and failed! It is one of the those flies I cannot master.
  21. After tying a no hackle dry fly, try casting it. I bet it it will spin and twist your tippet. The wings are have to be perfect and I mean PERFECT for the fly to be aerodynamically stable when cast. First of all, the fly should be tied using MATCHING right and left wings taken from the SAME goose. Then you need matching feathers taken from the identical location from those L and R wings. Then you need to cut the flies wing slips from the identical matching spot from those two matching wings and you better hope they match. Then you need to mount them on the correct side of the fly, each one at the same slant to the rear, the same tilt to the side and the same same length. Any slight variation and the fly will spin. So using matching wings and feather slips gives the tier the best chance of success. In my opinion, a no hackle dry fly one of the most difficult dry flies to tie and you won't know if it is tied right until you cast it. It can look good and still spin. I bet there are very few members that even have matching wings that are identified as taken from the same goose. I have hunters save them in separate bags but I haven't seen fly shops sell matching goose wing feathers that way.
  22. Did you use a hair stacker? If not, get a hair stacker to line up the ends of the elk hair and then measure the lined up hair against the fly and tie it in so it needs no trimming. Hair stackers come in various sizes so buy 3 sizes of them to cover tiny flies, medium sized flies and large flies. I wrote about tying elk hair caddis adn buying the correct hair for the fly on this post on another site. Copy and paste into your browser and go down to my post. https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/tips-for-tying-the-elk-hair-caddis.906270/#post-1578963
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