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SilverCreek

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About SilverCreek

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    Trout
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    2010

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  1. It may be an old joke but it was documented in our local newspaper.
  2. True story. We had a local notorious poacher who was finally caught by the Wisconsin DNR and given hard "time" in prison. In his freezer they found that he had killed a whooping crane which was endangered. There were also deer he had taken out of season as well but it was the whooping crane and that really got him into trouble. He also had his 12 yo son shine and shoot deer out of season. He was asked by a DNR warden what the whooping crane tasted like and he said "Like Bald Eagle."
  3. I'm burning sage so I can cleanse the fly tying room of evil energies........
  4. Hope to see you back soon Mark.
  5. In 40 years of fly tying I've seen a lot of hackle. It pays to learn how to "grade" hackle and I think anyone can learn to do it. So grading necks is a matter of actually taking the necks and saddles out of the package and inspecting them for barb length, barb density, and whether the stems will twist when wrapped, etc. I always take a white lined 3x5 index card with me. I use white unlined side as a background when I spread the hackle feather to gauge the hackle length and quality. A white background really helps as does a pair of reading glasses for magnification. It helps me see any subtle irregularity in the hackle like curved tips. The lined side of the 3x5 card can be used by beginners for measuring hackle sizes by placing marker vertical lines on the horizontal lines of the card for the hooks you actually use. Place the hooks on the horizontal lines on the card and mark and label the sizes. Then you will have a hook gauge that is customized for your own hooks. You can also use this gauge for choosing which hackle to pull of the neck or saddle to use when tying. Without removing the feather from the neck, bend individual feathers into an arc and compare the length of the individual hackle fibers against the 3x5” white card or home made hackle gauge. I don’t need a gauge but a beginner should use one. Measure the feathers at the top (narrowest) portion of the neck to see what the smallest fly can be tied. Also estimate the number of those feathers on the the neck. Better hackles have minimal webbing at the base. You don't want to use that portion of the hackle which has over 20-25% of its length taken up by webbing so only that portion of the feather that has less than this is useable. So grade the neck by the length of the USEABLE hackle and not the gross feather length. Note also the density of hackle fibers per length of feather. Denser hackle requires fewer turns to get the same floatation. Also look at the tips of the individual fibers. They should not be hooked but straight and sharp. Gauge the stiffness of the hackle by pushing against your lips which are more sensitive than your fingers. Stiffer is better. Try to get some sense of whether the hackle stem will twist when wound around a hook. The longer feathers will give you a sense of this when bent into an arc. Check the coloration of the neck. It should be consistent without mottling if possible. Look at the feathers underneath the surface feathers to see if there is color variation. Another part is knowing what the color looks like on the cape or saddle and what it looks like on the hook. Because the feathers are layered, the colors are darker on the skin. Pay attention when you tie to the color on the skin and the color on the hook when you tie. Then pay attention to the color on the skin and how they actual feather looks like when separated and bent when you are grading the hackle. If you can take the hackle package to a window that has some natural light coming in, you will get a truer impression of the color that under artificial light. Learn by handling necks and saddles so you know what the grades are and how they differ. It is experience. For me, I look for necks and saddles that are under graded. I want an cheaper neck or saddle that is better than it's price and grade. I mainly buy prograde necks and saddles because I know what I am looking for. For example, if I need hackle for a size 14 dry fly (the most popular size) I look for a saddle that has lots of size 14's and relatively fewer 12s and 16s. For example, there will be pro grade necks with more 16 than 14s and I do not buy those. The ability bend a saddle and quickly tell the dominant size allows me to go through a bunch and pick the best one for me. There is also a reason for a beginner to try pro grade necks and saddles. The reason is that the beginner needs to buy more colors of hackle than a long time tyer that already has a supply of hackle and is looking to add a specific size or color to replace or add to his supply. So for a beginner, they can get a wider selection of color and sizes for the same amount of money and get the best "bang for their buck".
  6. As you know there are two hackle pelts, Capes (also called Necks) and Saddles. The cape comes from the upper part of the chicken and has the broad range of sizes from smallest to the largest. Saddles come from further back and have longer feathers with a limited range of sizes. Capes are more expensive than saddles. However, the hackles on saddles are longer and you can tie several flies from one saddle hackle feather. So per fly, saddle hackle is the cheapest option. The other difference between necks and saddles is that necks can tie a wide spectrum of sizes from the smallest to the largest dry flies. Saddles generally are centered on one size and with some smaller and large hackles so a saddle will usually tie 3 sizes of flies with most of the hackel center on the middle size. So when you buy a saddle you have to examine the range of sizes on the saddle. Both hackles and saddles come in various "grades" and the higher the grade, the better the hackle. However, hackles have increased in quality and the cheapest way to tie flies is with the lower grades of saddles for three reasons. Saddles are cheaper than necks, saddles tie more flies per hackle feather than necks, and genetic hackles have become better overall so that lower grades of saddles tie good flies. In your specific case, you CANNOT tie the patterns you want with one dun colored cape. The PMD requires a the color of the particular PMD hatch you will be fishing, PMD naturals can come in a wide range of colors and with some size variations as well. They can vary from in the dun stage but also they are not the dun color in the spinner stage. "One of the characteristics of PMDs that can be particularly maddening and confusing to fly fishers is color. That is, what color best matches the nymphs, duns, and spinners? Fly fishers, and especially fly tiers, spend a lot of time trying to match just the right color of the natural. But when you go into a fly shop there will be bins of PMD or other fly patterns of different colors. What gives? Well, if there’s one thing I’ve found from collecting aquatic insects for over forty years is that color is not a definite thing, even between individuals of the same species from the same stream, and PMDs seem to exhibit this color variability more than most." https://flyfishusa.com/blog/Pale-Morning-Duns-Color-Me-Yellow-or-What So before you start ordering hackle you to analyse exactly what colors and sizes of hackles you need. Make a list/chart of the colors and sizes of the naturals in both dun (subimago) and spinner (imago) stages so you know the color and hackle sizes you need. Then make a list/chart of the hackle you need to imitate the those naturals. Then see what grade of hackle you can afford if you bought necks or saddles for those patterns. It sounds to me that you will need at minimum 3 colors - black for the winter midges, dun for the BWO and at least one other color for the PMDs. If I were you I would look into buying individual necks and saddles instead of both a neck and saddle of the same color. And I would look at different grades of hackle. Jim's Fly Company has the largest collection of hackle that I have ever seen and I suggest you give them a look. https://jimsflyco.com/CapesAndSaddles/Cart-Brands.aspx?dID=4&b=1
  7. Employers Insurance of Wausau used to advertise on CBS's "60 Minutes." Remember the ads that used to make fun of the pronunciation of "Warsaw"? That insurance company began because so many workers in the lumber industry in our state were being injured. So the workers banded together to self insure and that became the mutual insurance company "Employers Insurance of Wausau"
  8. They would log the forests in winter because the ground was frozen. That allowed the horse drawn sleds to move the logs over what would be soft ground in the summer. Then they floated the logs in the spring on the flooded small streams which all flowed into the Wisconsin River. Then they floated the logs down to the sawmills in the metro area I live in, Wausau, Wi. Those large box like structures in the middle of the river are called "cribs." There now is a hydro and flood prevention dam at Wausau that creates "Lake Wausau" that has covered the cribs. When the lake was drained to repair the dam gates., we could see the cribs.
  9. I roll the tops of my waders down to my waist to make them into wading pants. I use the my wading belt and shoulder straps clipped to each other to keep them in place.
  10. I've seen streams a lot smaller which were used to float logs. The "north woods" of Wisconsin were forested by huge white pines. It has been said that Wisconsin provided the lumber to build Chicago. http://bldgtypblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/white-pine-and-woods-of-northern.html Here's a small stream I fish that was used to float white pine logs during the spring thaw. Here'a a white pine log on the bank with my rod for scale. Note the drowned logs in the stream. They are from the 1800's.
  11. Where was your home in Montana. I've got some property just outside of Ennis, MT.
  12. https://kinsta.com/blog/resource-limit-is-reached/#what-causes-the-508-resource-limit-is-reached-error
  13. https://www.raramuridesign.com/kb/articles/error-524-a-timeout-occurred-what-it-is-how-to-fix-it.html#
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