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Fly Tying


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About BHouk

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/03/1952

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    Speedway, IN

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  1. You did a great job! You are correct. these flies are expensive and take a while to tie. (I have Choklett's book. Mine are not ready for sharing, yet...)
  2. I had an inflatable kayak for about two trips on flat water. I now have a hard body sit in and an old tandem hardbody I'm retro fitting with new rudder, seats and foot pegs (and a little extra). In any case I would not recommend an inflatable kayak. Now, some of the inflatable boats are pretty good. Just not the kayak style...
  3. "To see your ideas materialize in the vise is the prime reward of fly-tying. After you have once created it, it may become a drudgery to keep reproducing that creation. You will find it much more satisfactory to have someone else do this work for you." Ray Bergman, Trout, copy right 1966. Take a look at Greg Senyo and Blaine Chocklett. They pulled it off. And neither of them ties the flies. You may have to out source to obtain the volume you might need and that will require overseas workers to keep the margins down. Chocklett's Game Changer flies sell for $5 to $7. Not $0.75...
  4. I have a Traveler and a Regal knock off and a couple of simple clamp vices. I use the Traveler the most. Haven't gotten the hang of the knock off. The Traveler has a base. I find the clamp vices sit too close to me when clamped to the edge of a table or desk. Can't go wrong with the Renzetti .
  5. Glad you enjoyed the article and found it as informative as I did. I guess this is why we all tie in proportion to the hook; the tail is a shank in length, the wing is a hook gap wide. This is not only true across the size of hook, a 14 compared to a 16, but the manufacturers and styles as well. In any case, I thought it was a great video and article.
  6. A timely article in Fly Fisherman online magazine. Charlie Craven discusses hooks: https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/Making-Sense-of-Hooks/383617 There is a video and a written article at this link. The video is very informative about many of the issues raised on this thread.
  7. grizzly, dun, ginger, brown I have some other colors (white and red and not Whiting Silver's), but these four would be the ones I use the most.
  8. I'm a senior and I agree with mikechell. It is not polite or kind to favor (any) one person at the expense of several others. I get frustrated when someone let's a car in to a traffic pattern holding up the ten or so cars behind them. It is rude.
  9. Just curious, what was the name and author of the book. While I graduated from high school in 1970, I'm always looking for "classic" fly patterns.
  10. BHouk


    Paracord Planet has hundreds of colors... https://www.paracordplanet.com/ Several would make buggy looking flies. Thanks for the idea!
  11. In general, I've found the WFC hooks to be slightly smaller than Mustad. I tie a 14 on WFC when I would tie a 16 with Mustad. I don't have a lot of experience with the TMC hooks. Apologies on the poor photo quality. Wish I had some graph paper... And, the shaky handwriting.
  12. Experimenting with metallic thread. The one on the left is plain the one on the right has the body coated with UV resin. Need to practice on getting the body thread smoother. The thread is very course. Hook: Mustad C49s #14 Body: Gold Metallic thread with or without resin coating Thread: 6/0 black Hackle: Partridge feather Head: Black thread
  13. See this one on how to test your thread. Not sure about his estimates of thread life... https://www.superiorthreads.com/videos/thread-therapy/thread-shelf-life
  14. Try building a bump of thread near the eye. Build this bump up until the bead grabs it and kind of stays put. Then whip finish and cut the thread. Use an adhesive (on the thread bump) of your choice then push the bead on to the bump. Then start your jam knot right behind the bead. You can do this with regular or slotted beads and not have to wrap over the outside of the bead. I have to agree with flytier, review your choice of supplier...
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