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Fly Tying


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About Bill_729

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    Central Indiana

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  1. As long as you understand the notion of "cookies", and how to get rid of them you should be fine. If you don't, I recommend you take the time to understand how they can undermine your privacy. They may slow your system after a while too.. I'm not sure anymore, as I seldom go for more than a few days without deleting them (I use CCleaner for that, because it is quick and convenient, as well as free). Bill
  2. As a sort-of-techie, the "non-compatibility issues" are with the applications/browers being used/opened and not the one you started with. You could adjust the settings with the details dependent on your sysem and or software. I think I have 4 web browsers on my desktop (system). And the even more important tool, CCleaner.
  3. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words..
  4. If you look at a feather from a cape/neck, you'll notice that the base of the feather is "webby". Folks typically, pull off that part--knowing that they don't want to use that part on their fly. So in that sense, the "upper part" is the good part of the feather. You can examine the feather to see how much "inner web" (sic) it has--generally, less is better for dry flies. For a wooley bugger, a feather having more inner web may possibly give a more life-like action in the water, but I only worry about it to the extent it is convenient to do so.. A feather with soft hackle from a "hen" chicken may be ideal for a wet fly or streamer like the wooley bugger. If the "good part" is sort of short, there is nothing wrong with using 2 hackle feathers to get the job done. It is common to use a brown feather and a grizzly feather too on the Adams dry fly. I use other combinations on my bass and/or bluegill bugs depending upon my mood. In my experience, the tips of the feathers are sort of fragile, and I often have them break them off while wrapping them and have to start again--surely you will figure this out first hand (comment: you don't have to use the tip). If you have saddle hackle (from the side of the chicken), they are longer feathers, and in general you may get several flies out of one feather. I suspect they are ideal for the wooley bugger, but they are certainly not required. Since you have a vise, I take it for granted that you have a bobbin too. A bobbin is an important tool that I didn't have when I started tying, as my "kit" didn't come with one and I didn't realize how important it was to have one. Of course, some people tie flies without even a vise, just like some people climb Mount Everest or run marathons. I borrowed that thought from the Orvis Fly Tying Guide. Bill P.S. I may give the impression that I know what I'm doing, but I suspect I'm in the "bottom 50%" of the tyers here with regard to my knowledge or tying ability. I basically know how to tie what I need for my individual needs, as opposed to being able to tie flies for use accross the country, for instance. But between this forum and YouTube, my knowledge is growing. I've been participating here for about a year. During that time I have amassed a collection of foam I haven't dug into yet (and a few other stuffs I won't go into). I started tying when you had to learn from books with B&W photographs, if that. If you don't mind me asking, about how old are you (I enjoy having some sense of who is who : ) . Cheers!
  5. FWIW, it affected me when I used an I-phone earlier this week, with the Safari browser. This is not a problem for me, as I generally use my desktop. I'm just letting letting "the powers that be" know.
  6. Maybe "diagram" is a better word to use than "drawing". It would probably take less than 1 or 2 minutes to make one. Someone explained to me that I should keep a notebook of the "recipes" for the flies I tie, and there are several good reasons for doing so (which I won't go into here). I have fallen out of practice in doing it, but am going to fall back into the practice. The notebook would be a good place to put the diagram, and the name of the fly, the date, notes of any special details, etc. It will serve to remind you later of some details you will forget (like possibly the type and/or size of the hook you used). Bill
  7. If you didn't sketch it, how am I supposed to know whether it came out right or not? What stands out to me is the "cut" feather in the tail. Cut feathers almost always don't look right in a fly because they are not tapered anymore. Did you wrap ("palmer") a feather around the body? The barbs of the feather should be at least 1.5-2 times the distance between the shank of the hook and the point of the hook. For most dry flies I aim for 1.5 times. If that was your first fly, then I'd say you were somwhat-successful. Now try to tie the same one again! Since you said you used to like to draw (like I did), I think you should use that to your advantage. For the next one, lets see a sketch and a fly. In my experience, the second time I tie a fly it almost always comes out better than the first time. Save this fly for comparison purposes! You're off and running---congratulations! Bill
  8. This may sound silly, but I think I can tie almost anything I can draw/sketch. And on the other hand, expecting someone to tie something they can't sketch sounds like a lot to ask. I sketched many flies in the margin of my notebooks during some of those long high school classes. I sketched a few fish too! : ) It may have been convenient that I enjoyed drawing in general at the time. I think my point is that I have internalized what a typical fly is supposed to look like, and that includes proportions. Once you've done that, I think actually tying a fly is not a very large step to take. I guess, in a nutshell, I'm suggesting that there is an "artistic aspect" to tying--or, at least there can be. I suppose some people enjoy this aspect, and some people wouldn't want to go there. I am guessing the first group will have an "easier time" of it. Anyway, that was my experience; YMMV. Maybe sketch a fly in your notebook before you start tying it (then, you'll be ready--and will encounter no surprises!)? I will be curious as to what others think about this (strategy/guidance). I think that it's a good way to "learn your flies" too, and their names! Bill
  9. Bill_729

    My new shop

    When I grew up, we used to joke that people who (had room to) parked a car in their garages were just being silly! : )
  10. Bill_729


    I like to think that about outdoors-people in general. That's why it surprises me when I see so much "fast-food garbage", and I don't mean just a wrapper or two, in some of the locales where people fish... It's like they had to "take-off on account of fire!".
  11. What do you like to fish with? I hope you bought the right materials! : )
  12. It doesn't help that the good locations to fish are harder to come by. For whatever reason, I can think of only 1 place in the midwest where I can rent an aluminum boat. That said, I'm fishing more hours/year now than I ever did before.
  13. Bill_729

    My new shop

    Mike, I typed up a pretty long post, but it got lost somehow. Here are the highlights: 1. Compare amps, not "advertised hp". See owners manuals for this, if necessary. 2. Consider a "Forrest Woodworker II" saw blade. A bit expensive (typically about $119), but it will affect the quality of your work more than your dust collection will, so worthy of your consideration. Sorry my first post got lost (it's possible I wasn't signed in--it wouldn't be the first time). Bill
  14. With my wife's (bird) spotting scope, in Indiana, I could see it 1/5th as well, or as least as large, as in in your photo. That said, we did see it. Bill
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