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Fly Tying


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About Bill_729

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    Central Indiana

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  1. Bill_729

    Cabin build

    Man, you need some friends, to help! : ) Keep up the good work!
  2. Bill_729

    Cabin build

    If you make it too cozy, you may find wildlife taking refuge in it. That could provide a surprise for you both! : )
  3. Bill_729

    Cabin build

    It reminds me a little of of a deer blind I used a long time ago, except my blind was round. Have you "thought out" the roof? Why don't you want to use a chainsaw? Bill
  4. Copied from the website: ** Pre-order Special ** - Printing and shipment from overseas was delayed due to Covid - we're hoping to have them before the end of the year. It sounds like they have not forgotten about you! Bill
  5. Bill_729

    Cabin build

    Look like fun! I'm glad I'm not paying you by the hour (I often say that about my own work). It's hard to tell the dimensions from the photo. I don't know if it will be relevant, but remember that "green wood shrinks". I trust that you have a chainsaw. Bill P.S. Remember that the pyramids were built by people with decreasing goals! : )
  6. Try a 2-D (rather than a 3-D) diagram. Sketch the hook to the correct proportions, and then "decorate" it, and assess. Then do it again, if desired. To my mind, it would be impossible to get the proportions better on a real hook then you are able to get them in your diagram (YMMpossiblyV). One things I left out of my last post. When you look at your hook in the vise, take a moment visualize the key "division lines" along the hook shank, just like in your diagram, before and during your tying. Surely you are already on the road to success! Have fun! Bill
  7. In the fly tying class I took, we were asked to keep a notebook and to make a sketch of each fly along with listing the materials, hook size, name of the fly, etc. Since I enjoyed "sketching" anyway, I think that was good practice in for me in getting an "eye" for proportions. Think how much "trial and error" you can get in 5 minutes with a pencil without getting hung-up on technicalities-- like thread, and searching for materials. For me, making a sketch is usually a useful step in making most anything... (while I have known a couple of people who don't plan anything, and seem to get a lot done). If someone were to ask me about my best tools, I think I would have to include the humble "list".
  8. I have their 2020 catalog, however a visit to their web site seems to confirm your observation. I enjoyed trying to "support" Hook & Hackle as I liked their (lower-brow) "attitude". There was a time when their catalog was the easiest source of materials that I knew of and it saddens me that they may no longer be selling fly tying materials. I wish them success going forward.
  9. FWIW, I was learning out of books (in the pre-Internet days), and a course consisting of 6 weekly meetings at the local community college improved my flies for good! My me, the addition of a bobbin, which didn't come as part of my kit) made a huge difference. I've heard some say the bobbin isn't such a big deal, but we all have our own experiences, besides our own hands. : ) I don't have a "ceramic" bobbin, but it's never held me back. OTOH, my bobbin looks slightly better-made to me than many of those I see for sale now. P.S. Maybe one of the best things you get out of lessons, is the point of view that tying a fly is a 5 or 6 (or 10) step process. No one ever really said that, but that's what goes through my mind when tying. So in that sense, the process is organized (and not needlessly rushed). Each step has something of a goal (and if it's not achieved, consider doing it again). I have "reclaimed" plenty of hooks with my handy razor blade.
  10. Buying a book may help to boost your confidence, and many of them are not very expensive. There are many to choose from. I think Orvis publishes two (I have one of them). Your local library may have some as well. Bill
  11. My average seems slightly better than than what you described (in jest), but I still have difficulty getting a leader to last more than 3 outtings. I have a hunch those fellers that claim they make a leader last all season are either lying or aren't challenging themselves enough! %-)
  12. Last year (2019) I had no trouble finding many economical choices ($20-$30) of 7-DT-F, and at just about the same time had to pay $60 for 5-DT-F. I attributed the difference to "market differentiation" by the manufacturers rather than a significant difference in the fly line. That said, my plans to use the weight 5 line were curtailed this year, and I haven't tried it yet (but I am looking forward to do so!). There's another reason for a beginner to go with a 7-weight, among others I can think of (other things constant). Bill I haven't been "informed" by the owner of my local fly shop that there is no real difference between DT and WF (and mostly all they stock is WF), and I heartily disagree. FWIW, I am using fiberglass rods.
  13. I always thought that "unnecessary driving" showed a disregard for the environment. We recycle, even though it is not required, and we have a family that I think is "more environmentally friendly" than most. I'm not the sort of person that would cut down trees to put up more buildings. One of my friends used to say, when it comes to people and animals, the animals always lose... Maybe the world would be a better place if the automakers didn't run a semi-monopoly, and built cars people could really afford rather than ones which made them the most money. I would prefer a car Without TPMS, TYVM! : ) The more technology, the more stuff there is to break.
  14. 130K miles on the vehicle. There are a few stains in the driveway, but nothing "wet". What is most likely happening to the oil? Since the mechanic said oil was "oozing" ~10 years ago, I assumed that meant that it might be escaping slowly. Based on your comment, its sounds like it might be getting burnt up through worn valves. Is that what you think, or are there more likely scenarios? I've kept the fluids, brakes, filters in good condition, so I haven't felt "negligent". At 130K miles, I don't expect perfection--personally, I've never had car get 130K miles---I don't drive that much. It's "unnaturally" aspirated (turbo), so it probably runs hotter than a naturally aspirated engine. I am tempted to point to that as a cause of the higher oil usage. I would rather replace the vehicle than replace its engine. But I enjoy that it is paid for and has low maintenance and insurance costs, being over 10 years old. Substituting one that is a year old in its place would likely cost $25K, plus taxes and much higher insurance. Bill
  15. FWIW, no one said my car is burning any oil--besides that drop every 200 miles that you mentioned.
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