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Fly Tying


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About johnnyquahog

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  1. Things must have changed in the past few years when I used to read the comparison reviews. I thought there was Whiting and then everyone else when it came to density of feathers, barbule count, usable feather length, # of feathers and # of flies one could tie (cost per fly). I don't even recall if I got to choose the color of the Collins saddles I have. I was going to suggest the Whiting intro hackle pack which gets you 4 half capes, maybe even in your chosen colors for $66. Bearsden says they might even have one with cree. I had trouble getting into the collins web site above, just got a splash page... but now will have to check them out just based on the accolades here.
  2. Kelly Galloup cautions in one of his videos to never leave a hook in the vise over night as bad things can happen. Never really thought about it but I’m sure that in the last forty or so years I probably did just that a few times.
  3. By all means get a true rotary vise. Kelly Galloup has a couple of good videos on selecting a vise that are worth watching. If you ever get into epoxy or LCA you will appreciate the true rotary features beyond just checking out the far side of the fly. I like renzetti because that was the only true rotary I knew about in the early 80’s and after I spent a session watching Dave Whitlock work his magic with deer hair got what later evolved into the 3000. Several years after I got a top end renzetti to do saltwater, mostly 1/0 to 6/0 stuff. There are more fine choices today than ever but do a little research and by all means get the vise that you want since you are the only one that may be spending countless enjoyable hours in front of (or is it behind?) it. Tight wraps!
  4. Hey.. I got one of those vises as well as a couple of rite bobbins. I'm a fan of both.
  5. While waiting for an analog catalog you might look at whitetailflytieing dot com under the category tieing hair. They specialize in hair have a larger variety than most.
  6. It’s all fun and games until someone loses an eye, so to speak. Chris Helm turned me on to Beacon 527 found in the crafts section of Walmart. It has a smaller nozzle than the shoe-goo type toluene based products, it is safer to use in the house and is just as effective. Enrico uses a cautery tool to burn a few fibers away and uses a bodkin to get a dollop of adhesive to the shank of the hook. Then he seats the eye into the adhesive. You should see a halo of the adhesive around the eye. Of course he uses the hard plastic eyes but the technique is important. The adhesive should not dissolve as you described is happening to your fly. I’ve lost a few eyes but not before the fly was chewed on pretty good. I recall doing well on one eyed flies too.
  7. If you found this mayfly on a muddy / silty bottomed stream then I’m gonna say it is a black quill. If it was clear sandy or rocky bottom then ignore my response.
  8. On the off chance that you are interested, you can purchase flies tied by A.K. at southcreekltd dot com. You can mix them up but you need to purchase at least a dozen. I got a bunch several years ago. The cost is reasonable considering they are tied by a master and advocate of the craft.
  9. Capt Bob’s response about keeping a tray of water on the tying desk reminded me of watching Jack Gartside tie. When Jack wanted to tame material like maribou or the pheasant aftershaft feathers used on his sparrow pattern he simply used spit/saliva. I tie lots of sparrows and a little saliva on the index finger and thumb helps stroke the philoplume (sp?) back from the hook eye so you can get a clean thread wrap. On his web site when he refers to dampen the material he wasn’t using water. I’m not suggesting anyone else do this.
  10. Great looking display Bruce. Quite the menagerie of critters.
  11. Great looking display Bruce. Quite the menagerie of critters.
  12. Wing, tail, belly and cheeks are either sea-fibers, ep fibers or Congo hair. I am not looking at a high res monitor but I’m thinking the thread is clear mono. If that is the case then the gills are a half dozen turns of clear mono run over a red sharpie tip prior to wrapping. Head is epoxy or LCA.
  13. Saltwater guys sometimes substitute yak for pb. If you are thinking kip tail though then I’m guessing you don’t need length. Pb is typically priced by length * square inch.
  14. Stmflies - quite remarkable deer hair work there. mega kudos
  15. Just to add to what Capt LeMay said, and he is a master at his craft. He is production tying so rodmakers epoxy is the perfect choice in this application. LCA or light cured acrylics have pretty much replaced epoxy for many saltwater tyers. I haven’t played around much with tape with the exception of Bob’s bangers. Everyone knows that 5 minute epoxy turns an amber color after a few months. Before acrylics 5 minute Devcon or Z-poxy in individual squeeze tubes was popular for surf candies. Someone insisted that 5 minute gorilla brand wouldn’t yellow so I did a few and they behaved nicely (didn’t yellow) on the center console after several months. 30 minute / 2 ton epoxy warrants a rotisserie. A rotary vise aids in controlling 5 minute epoxy while letting it set up. I have a drawer full of old amber flies. 5 minute gorilla example… The objective is to have a big fish destroy them before they discolor.
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