Jump to content
Fly Tying

rstaight

core_group_3
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    923

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rstaight

  1. rstaight
    Welcome, Back home, Indiana, its usually bluegills and smallmouth. Taking a trip in a few weeks for trout in the Driftless. This week it's saltwater in Treasure Island Florida. The red tide didn't make it this far. Really, if it swims, its good.
  2. rstaight
    The taper in them transfers energy well. With the leaders I have made I can get a nice loop with leader in my hand.
  3. rstaight
    One modification I have done to my furled thread leaders is to switch to Orange thread for the end of the leader and change back to what ever I started with when that section was done. Usually olive. This gives me a built in strike indicator.
  4. rstaight
    Knicked, frayed, and broken thread is a part of tying. If you catch the hook point pull out a couple of inches and restart and trim as if it was broken. I use mostly UTC 70 denier. If I get smaller than size 18 I switch to Danville 12/0. I will use UTC 140 on size 8 and larger.
  5. rstaight
    The jig I built was designed for a 6 ft leader. I modified so I can build a 9 ft. also. Then you add 3 to 4 feet of tippet with a loop connection. No, I do not have a problem with hinging. You could add a ring if you want. A floating line is all I use, just started playing around with sink tips this year so I can't really give a good answer on how well they sink. But a weighted fly will bring them down. Going to have to expierment. Will do that when I get back from vacation.
  6. rstaight
    I have made both styles of l leaders. The furled do pickup water but I haven't had Mike's problem and I wear glasses also. I have made furled out of thread and mono. I used waxed tying thread and not to many problems but they do get waterlogged eventually. The mono, never a problem. You can find plans for a furled leader jig online. If for no other reason than just to try it. But it comes down to, what do you prefer. And the only way to find out is to try different ones.
  7. rstaight
    When fishing dry flies I prefer the action of glass or bamboo over graphite. When I go on trips to the Driftless I always take along at least 1 bamboo and 1 glass.
  8. rstaight
    Another option, give steeldrifter a call.
  9. rstaight
    Think your on to something there.
  10. rstaight
    Often wandered what the deal was with the ultra fast rods. A lot of folks can't cast them unless they are over lined. The lines developed for these rods are 1/2 to 1 full weight heavier. Take your old moderate-fast to fast tapers and under line it by 1.
  11. rstaight
    I have a Redington RS2 3wt. Bought it on clearance from Cabela's when it was discontinued. The rod performs great. Even had a guide comment on how nice the action was. I like it better than my 3wt Sage LL. I can't fault a Redington. They are a great entry rod or a rod for an experienced caster.
  12. rstaight
    Size 8 and 10 are easy to see regardless of light conditions. Size 12 starts to run into minor problems. Orange and white can both be tough under certain light conditions. When you can't see one you can usually see the other. I have often considered a fluorescent green or lime for a sight indicator. Haven't tried it but need to.
  13. rstaight
    Nice video. I tie these in 3 sizes, 8, 10, and 12 using orange and white for the sight indicators. Orange on size 8, white on size 10, orange at the rear and white on the front of the size 12. That way it's a quick visual for which size in the box.
  14. rstaight
    I tried the Trilene knot years ago. Stopped using it because I lost to many expensive spinner baits, crank baits, and buzz baits with it. I had to constantly retie. It keeps tightening down on its self and cuts the line.
  15. rstaight
    Bob, I like that idea. You have a trophy with out cost of a mount. But if you insist on a mount you can have a replica made. Just get measurements of the length and girth along with few good pictures.
  16. rstaight
    Maybe this is just me. But why would I want to use a resin if I need to put on a light coat of head cement to keep it clear? I would just rather use the head cement.
  17. rstaight
    That, took some skills. I love it!
  18. rstaight
    Here is my take on the subject. India and Chinese are basically the birds you find in the barnyard. There may be some breeding for different colors but that's about it. The genetic birds are breed over time for fly tying. Whiting, Metz, and Keough are just a few. They have long hackles, softer hackles, what ever that breeder is wanting to accomplish. Now this is just my layman's thoughts. I am certain someone out there can answer this a whole lot better than I.
  19. rstaight

    RS2

    rstaight replied to McFlyLures's topic in The Fly Tying Bench

    I use a small ball of thread. Doesn't take much.
  20. rstaight
    Welcome, always good to see folks taking up tying. Especially good to see the youngsters.
  21. rstaight
    Was reading another thread and carp was mentioned as a hard fighter. They are, but the same size red fish makes them look like a *****, lets say wimp.
  22. rstaight
    Hey, you forgot Nissan.😀
  23. rstaight
    I have made the comment to the Safety Engineers at work, "Sometimes we need to let Darwin do his job". They laugh and say I understand but I'm not allowed.
  24. rstaight
    I have done tying marathons for Casting for Recovery. Even tied flies at shows giving away flies for donations for Casting for Recovery. But I never gave a thought about donating gear such as vest. Damn, that makes sense. Need something to carry all those flies in.
  25. rstaight
    A Red Ass does work well.
×
×
  • Create New...