sharpening scissors

[vicrider 0]

Has anyone actually sharpened their scissors by cutting 4 layers of aluminum foil like I've read on this board? I hate to take a good pair of scissors, a higher priced pair, and ruin the sharpness they have now by cutting foil. They are still functional but nothing like they were a few years ago.

[Poopdeck 0]

I think the old cutting tinfoil trick has been debunked. Don’t do it. 

I have a pair of scissors that came in a cheap tying tool kit purchased in the 70/80’s.  You know, the kind that everybody says not to use because they come in a kit and therefore suck, will not last and will soon be replaced by an expensive pair. They have been and still are my primary most used scissors of the two pairs I own. I only got the second pair because they were inherited but I think they are of equal age, maybe older. In any event, I use a pull through sharpener like pictured and don’t feel a need to get “sharper” scissors. Always worked for me.

 

[skeet3t 0]

I have one of the Smith's knife sharpeners and leaves a bit to be desired. I have a three piece set of DMT diamond files for my turning tools. I used them in sequence to sharpen a pair of cheap scissors. Sharp as any expensive scissors.

[SilverCreek 0]

To my knowledge, cutting aluminum foil will NOT sharpen scissor since a new edge is not created. Metal has to be removed from the beveled edge of the scissors to sharpen the cutting edge. Here is how to do it:

Sharpening fly tying scissors is simple with the right tools and it is easy to do. You will need 600 grit sandpaper, a smooth piece of glass, a black Sharpie marker and aluminum foil.

Open the scissors and color the outside beveled edges of the scissor blades with the Sharpie marker. Place the sandpaper grit side up on the piece of glass. Place the beveled edge of one side of the scissor blade on the sandpaper and stroke the beveled edge AWAY from the sharp edge of the scissor blade. This will form a metal burr on the INSIDE edge of the blade.

As you stroke, check the bevel to make sure that the black ink is being remove evenly along the entire bevel. This ensures you are maintaining the same bevel angle. You will also be able to see any dings on the cutting edge. If there are dings, you will need to remove enough metal to remove the ding.

Then do the other blade. You will then have two blades with a metal burr metal on the inside of the scissor blade from tip to hinge.

The next step is to bend this metal burr to the outside of the blades. Use finger pressure to keep the blades from touching and close the scissors. Now open the blades and the burrs will hook each other and bend to the outside. Now you can slice the aluminum foil to remove the burr.

I use a different material for sharpening. I use a soft Arkansas whetstone (novaculite) that I lubricate with water. However, you need to reserve one only for scissors. If you use it to sharpen knives, it can get worn unevenly.

 

[vicrider 0]

Okay, I'm not going to  do the folded tin foil hack alone on your advice. The other problem is that the scissors I'm talking about have only about a 1/2 tip on the blades. Great for close in work but now so good for trying to pull through a sharpener stone. Might see if I can make the Silver Creek work and then cut a slice of foil to shape blade burr. They're still usable and don't really want to risk messing them up. Don't remember name offhand but when I got that pointed pair and a large pair in a purchase deal I looked them up sold for over $40. Not what you want to ruin by trying to make better.

[johnnyquahog 0]

Back when subscriptions to fly fishing magazines were a thing I had read an article on scissors. It mentioned that most professional sharpeners were not skilled (sharpening and tuning) in fly tying scissors.  It also had listed a few of those that were reputed to be good at it.  I sent a pair of straight, one side serrated Thompsons to the first person on the list and got them back much better than new along with a mailer kit for next time.  Those old scissors still have a lot of flies left in them.   Does dr. Slick recondition their scissors?

[Sandan 0]

7 minutes ago, johnnyquahog said:

Back when subscriptions to fly fishing magazines were a thing I had read an article on scissors. It mentioned that most professional sharpeners were not skilled (sharpening and tuning) in fly tying scissors.  It also had listed a few of those that were reputed to be good at it.  I sent a pair of straight, one side serrated Thompsons to the first person on the list and got them back much better than new along with a mailer kit for next time.  Those old scissors still have a lot of flies left in them.   Does dr. Slick recondition their scissors?

Last I spoke with the rep @ DR. Slick, last year, they re-sharpen their scissors for 10 bucks. Not sure how much more if you need them re-pointed too.  Scissors are tough to sharpen. SilverCreek has it right though. I'd only add, go slow when you're doing it.

[flytire 0]

i brought my 20+ year old dr slicks to my local ace hardware and they wanted no part in sharpening them. too small for them to sharpen

i broke down and bought a pair of kopter scissors and that was the best thing ive bought in years

theyre on sale a jstockard now Fly Tying Scissors, Fly Fishing Arrow Scissors | J. Stockard (jsflyfishing.com)

no more dr slicks for me

[Sandan 0]

27 minutes ago, flytire said:

i brought my 20+ year old dr slicks to my local ace hardware and they wanted no part in sharpening them. too small for them to sharpen

i broke down and bought a pair of kopter scissors and that was the best thing ive bought in years

theyre on sale a jstockard now Fly Tying Scissors, Fly Fishing Arrow Scissors | J. Stockard (jsflyfishing.com)

no more dr slicks for me

The Kopters are sure nice, Renomed too. The only problem I have w/ them is I tie with scissors in hand and those 2 just don't work for me. I sure do like my 3.75" Dr. Slick razor scissors

[Capt Bob LeMay 0]

I long ago realized that I was a failure at scissor sharpening- until I learned to get the kind of tailor’s snips that have blades mounted on spring arms that are removable… 

Once I could remove one blade (each blade is screw mounted) then hand sharpening with a series of bench stones was easily done… After a blade is removed it's easy to sharpen the remaining blade - then re-attach and remove the sharpened blade allowing you to do the other side.  I start with standard soft Arkansas stone - then finish with a marble hard natural stone - both very lightly oiled... 

I've re-sharpened the pair of Clover scissors (believe they're from Japan) at least a half dozen times over the years and they're still performing well.  The only other tip I can provide is not to use a good pair of scissors for rough work ... for that I use much bigger scissors (Fiskars, and others)... I try to only use my good scissors for small amounts of natural materials... 

[DFoster 0]

14 hours ago, flytire said:

i brought my 20+ year old dr slicks to my local ace hardware and they wanted no part in sharpening them. too small for them to sharpen

i broke down and bought a pair of kopter scissors and that was the best thing ive bought in years

theyre on sale a jstockard now Fly Tying Scissors, Fly Fishing Arrow Scissors | J. Stockard (jsflyfishing.com)

no more dr slicks for me

Here's a vid you might find interesting.  From this years British Fly Fair by the Kopter rep-  A lot of pros are really impressed with their scissors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tyi52W7YD2o

  

[cphubert 0]

I have an old pair of left-hand Anvil scissors. My sister, A hairdresser, sent them out for professional sharpening with her stuff. I don't know what they charged her - I was told Merry Christmas but I'll never abuse them by cutting anything except thread and light materials, they are as good as new. I have ruined other scissors, for heavy material so far the Dr. slicks  with the adjustable tension have held up to my southpaw use. wish someone would make left hand slip joint pliers and pruning shears I really abuse those.

[Sandan 0]

13 hours ago, cphubert said:

I have an old pair of left-hand Anvil scissors. My sister, A hairdresser, sent them out for professional sharpening with her stuff. I don't know what they charged her - I was told Merry Christmas but I'll never abuse them by cutting anything except thread and light materials, they are as good as new. I have ruined other scissors, for heavy material so far the Dr. slicks  with the adjustable tension have held up to my southpaw use. wish someone would make left hand slip joint pliers and pruning shears I really abuse those.

Agree with you and  @Capt Bob LeMay don't use your good scissors for rough work. I'm a lefty also and the Dr. Slicks you mention, as I said I really like the 3.75" razor scissors, work for me too.

[skeet3t 0]

I'm left handed and discovered how to use RH scissors. When using RH scissors, the thumb pulls the loop toward the hand, causing the two blades to rub together for cutting action. I can use RH scissors with my left hand by pushing the loop with my thumb, causing the blades to cut.

[niveker 0]

Mine are going, I'm going to give sharpening then a try, but I have to get a better set of stones first, whetstones that is.  They're not that expensive, so no loss if I make them worse.

A few years ago I could have just given them to my Dad, he's got the touch with whetstones and a strop, but his eyes and hands are no longer what they used to be.