whatfly

Huh, must not be a lot of dry fly fishers on the board anymore. While there are a bunch of expensive products out there (e.g. Amadou) your best bet is synthetic chamois which you can buy in large sheets in the automotive section of your favorite big box store. Just cut it into smaller sheets and put a couple in your vest. This along with a silica like Frog's Fanny or Dry Share can go a long way for keeping a fly floating after a few fish. Inevitably you'll have to retire the fly after a period of time, but between waterproofing at the vise (e.g. Watershed), a good floatant, a chamois, and Dry Shake or the like, you can get a lot of fishing out of a single dry. Once you want to retire the fly, you can just hit it with the chamois and leave it on your fly patch to dry. P.S. In case the OP has not already realized this, putting wet flies back in your box is really a bad idea for the rest of your ties, in the long run.

Yup. Chironomid bodies (dipped in acetone) and for steelhead patterns. Good stuff but you have to want a really bright body. Use raylon and silk as well. Depends on effect.

As many as I want.

A board, a nail, and an electric drill/screwdriver are all you really need. Try the search function for ideas.

Looks like yet another artificial hair product: https://squimpishflies.com/ Have not tied with it, but looks like a lot of other products on the market -- and at that price, it is unlikely I'll try it anytime soon.

Mark: Some sort of pheasant? Would make some nice wings. And now we have moderators posting girly pictures? Huh.

Steeldrifter raises some good points but the single biggest commonality among the usual bargain basement crowd here is that they fish a very narrow set of conditions and waters, so their needs are pretty limited and simple. For those of us that fish a wider variety of species, conditions, and localities, a cheap WF off of ebay is often not a reasonable answer.

Not silly at all, and not a hard defined date, but anytime after the IFTD show is a good starting point, which is typically mid to late October. The mechanics is once the vendors announce changes in next year's line up, and this can be as trivial as them just changing the packaging, shops usually start clearing out readying for next year's stock. When shops/online vendors actually discount last year's lines is up to them, but by January most are clearing out last year's models in my experience.

The 6-weight is definitely a step up from the 5#, but if I wanted to throw a 7 weight bass line, I'd probably want the 7 weight, which I have not thrown.

Not quite as simple a question as you might think, because there are a ton of different situations even in the range you specified where I'd want a specific type of line. Cheapest example I can think of is get yourself some LC13 (can be bought by foot in many shops, 14-15' should work for a 7wt.), some monofilament running line (25-30#) and you have a shooting head. This is useful if you have to get down fast and while it will not throw elegantly, a bit of practice will allow you to cover a lot of water. For a more conventional answer, check out the Scientific Anglers Wet Cel lines. You should be able to find one of these to fit your needs in the $30 range. Standard trick if time is unimportant, is to wait until the end of the year clearances. Last year's lines, especially sink tips in odd sizes, are often discounted at the end of the year, and deals can always be found with a bit of digging.

While Mikechell's point might be true with larger flies (and only "might"), will not make a bit of difference for all practical purposes on nymphs. Furthermore, if you are using loop knots, then the point is moot.

Rocco: Yup, and more used to seeing it with silver instead of gold tinsel. Charlie Craven ties it this way too, so maybe that's where this version comes from. Personally, the InTheRiffle version is better if one is trying to learn the pattern I would argue: A faster pace is useful if trying to cut through boring or repetitive steps, but really doesn't serve a purpose as far as I can tell in this case.

Used for the British "Blob" patterns. Allegedly quite effective. Several varieties of fritz out there and like estaz, I imagine one is probably just as good as the other.

Problem with these cases is that if the reel bounces around at all, it can snap your tip section very easily unless it is securely out of the way. Had/have a case like Flytire described, and stopped using it after the 2nd or 3rd trip to the repair shop. Might have been caused by trying to leave the rod rigged before putting it in the tube, but regardless, a rod case that breaks rods just doesn't seem like a good idea. YMMV.

You did not mention if you are using an indicator or swinging/stripping but if the former, google "balanced leech" for some other ideas.

Along the lines that Mike suggested, you could also find an adhesive backed anchor that you could tie whatever you want to use as a safety line to, such as: https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Adhesive-Backed-Holders，-Screw-Hole-Provides-long（50pack）/dp/B07JMSWNC8/ref=sr_1_46 Note, the newer Tacky Boxes appear to come with eyelets, so this is primarily a problem with the original models. Weight is probably the biggest downside of all silicone fly boxes, and why I do not use them myself. Had not thought of it, but I imagine they sink quite fast.

Might want to look at Chocklett's Body Wrap then. This is what use use to make Game Changers, and is the densest product I can think of for what you describe. Personally, I'd just use wool or Senyo Laser Dub stacked to achieve the same goal, but YMMV.

While a photo would be useful, sounds like the bugger was tied with eyelash yarn or the equivalent. There are a number of products with similiar characteristics to the one described by the OP, finding the right one is up to you without a bit more of a hint. Easiest solution is to go back to the store you got the pattern from and get more. Barring that, go through some of the online catalogs and find an equivalent product. The problem is not finding something that will serve, the problem is sorting through all the alternatives.

What, as if the internet is not already cluttered enough with self-serving egotistical hero shots? And no one is going to comment about the phrase "native Brown trout"? That one always makes me chuckle. Dave_L: Thanks for the report. There certainly is a lot of good water around Bishop and Mammoth. Must be hot down there this time of year.

Mark has the most reasonable answer. Or you could use something like Beadalon (c.f. Kelly Galloup videos) which is unlikely to get cut even if a sharp edge exists, or Seyno Wire, but those only works for certain patterns. Personally, I have a heavy hook file at my tying table and I just hit the edges quickly when using hooks for lead section, which is cheaper than shanks and not that much extra effort. YMMV.

Agreed. Older Ross'es were great, simple, reliable reels but the newer ones just do not have the same reputation. Galvan over the same period has maintained a solid reputation. I have both old and new Ross reels and a few Galvans too, and I would pick Galvan over them any day as long as you are willing to pay the premium.

Not sure why you would need to burn it. Hair has a natural tapering, the pictured material does not, so it is synthetic. Utyer has nailed it I suspect.

Flytire's posts are most salient. Dubbing brushes have been tied using thread for years, you just need to do a bit more work to keep them together and organized. Personally, I do not think thread is worth the effort, with all due respect to Leisenring, Hidy, Bird, et al. If just using thread, a dubbing loop is sufficient for me. From my own experience, I find that stainless steel wire produces better brushes than copper which is more difficult to work with in my opinion (soft, greater tendency to twist rathe than hold shape, etc.). Either will work, however, you just have to be careful. The whole point of making a dubbing brush is to speed up your tying, and does not really have anything to do with the size of the bug.

Call Rio and ask if the lines can be distinguished by color. Otherwise, those three lines should be distinguishable by taper so consult Rio's web site.

For me I only use braided loops on larger rigs when I'm pursuing larger game and I use the method SilverCreek outlined and generally the 50# braid is much easier to work with than the lighter stuff. I too like the OP was gifted some pre-made commercial loops and found them to be nothing but a pain to work with due to the smaller diameter. Braided loops are not only useful for leaders mind you but also can be used to join heads to running lines. I really dislike the sound they make when going through the guides, but they do get the job done.