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About samsonboi

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  1. It’s hanging right side up. It’s not a jig hook. The bead is just sitting the front of the hook lower. Follow the thread to the fly; I tied it in on the top of the fly. If I’d have tied it in on the bottom of the hook as oriented hook point down, it would float hook point up. The bead will equalize a bit when tied to a leader as there’ll be a tiny bit of tension on the eye.
  2. Today’s piggyback in a water glass. Should have used a slightly bigger deer hair ball but it floats alright in pools and flats, not so much riffles tho.
  3. Yes those have been tough to master! They still need a lot of work but they are good enough to fish!
  4. I think the black spider is a great looking fly if it’s tied with care and not thrown together. I think that many times less is more, but to each his own.
  5. Yep thank you @Landon P Your photos were great it was just hard to make out the details against the dark background. I prefer not to edit as I am only posting photos to show others, whereas you are selling flies. I would edit if I had a great camera, I will be getting myself an iPhone SE2, the new generation, soon so maybe I will edit pics taken on that. sorry for the hijack.
  6. @vicentedo you like these better? An Au Sable Wulff A Goddard Caddis an Adams Another G. C. AuSable Caddis variation and below is an old dry fly pattern, the Au Sable B as listed in The Fisherman’s Handbook of Trout Flies by Donald Du Bois the wings are black and white tipped wood duck and the body is floss. It needs some perfecting but this one isn’t terrible. I should have only used 1 strand of floss. The white puff is just some stray deer hair static clinging to the hook bend.
  7. Indeed V. but keep in mind I am taking them on an outdated iPhone 5.
  8. Yep that dark blue is good for lighter flies like Light Cahill etc
  9. @Landon P A little constructive criticism- use a lighter background for dark toned flies. White is usually a good bet for dark flies but not so much for light ones. I like chartreuse or a medium tan. your tying is getting better! here are some I tied today, the Uni-Cord I just got is great for deer hair spinning!
  10. Pull the long hair off in bunches rather than cutting it. Then, when you’ve finished all the long hair, use the underfur for dry fly dubbing. Dye it orange and use it for the Au Sable Wulff- apparently Fran Betters had a big piece of polar bear that he only tied flies for himself with. He loved the stuff and supposedly it’s got the same fiber structure as Australian Possum.
  11. Does anyone miss hits on a Piggyback? They’re so easy to follow. I don’t think it’s hubris, it’s just true. I have literally never missed a solid hit on a Piggyback. I am not saying I’m the best fly fisher, nympher, or anything else. I am an amateur with a lot to learn about fly fishing. I am just making a statement of fact. Take it or leave it, it’s true. My posts about indicators? Those are opinions based on observation on my home waters. It’s perfectly fine if you don’t accept them. To me, they are true. To you, maybe not. Keep in mind that your fishing is very technical fishing to selective trout. I believe you’re in Pennsylvania? My fishing is a lot less technical. I don’t think I’ve ever tied on a dry fly under size 22- and that’s rare. I usually fish dries between 6 and 16. My most common size range for dries is 10-14. Nymphs, yes, smaller sizes sometimes, but the smallest nymphs I commonly use are around 18. If conditions dictate I will go smaller but I rarely need to. Trout on the Au Sable can get somewhat selective, but general size give or take a hook size or two and general shape and color are about as selective as they get besides during the Sulfur, Green Drake, and Iso hatches. Got black caddis in #16 hatching? They’ll take a very dark brown or olive caddis in 14 or 16. Anyway, our fish usually hit more solidly and are less selective. On spring creeks fish can afford to be picky. On a freestone creek refusing a meal could mean starvation- because if the trout misses a couple meals, the other fish might crowd him out cause he’s weak, meaning he’ll most likely miss more. And as for this “I only wish I was that good a fisherman to never miss hits with an indy. ” I miss a lot of hits with regular indy’s.
  12. I’ve got several bobbins so I could certainly dedicate one to GSP. I have a few cheapies I keep above my bench in case I need one and don’t want to bother changing thread on my Ekich if I’m only gonna tie a couple flies with that color and put it away, so I can use one of those for the GSP.
  13. On the tag. ON THE TAG. That’s basically an emerger. I don’t miss hits on those with trout, ever, as long as they solidly hit the fly. If they just splash at it, yeah I miss them, or if they overshoot it, but that is not a hit. Although when striking from upstream, that is, I’m setting the hook from a point upstream of the fish, I miss a lot of hits on the dries and wets I fish downstream. But that doesn’t apply to Piggybacks because I only fish them upstream. They just don’t work right downstream- line control is a lot harder. So I just use a skittered dry or a wet pupa or soft hackle on a Leisenring lift when I fish downstream. Oh and streamers too.
  14. I never miss hits with an indy on the tag or a Piggyback. The fish are sucking the pupa or emergent nymph in confidently and hit hard especially on a caddis pupa. With a Piggyback or indy on the tag you don’t need to adjust for depth- the depth you want is just below the surface. I use Airlocks most simply because the river I fish most, the Au Sable, is usually quite rough and there is often wind. With small creeks and smooth waters (including the few smooth water sections of the West Branch and most of the east branch) I go to a Dorsey as wind is less of a problem and they don’t impede casting and splash down on those smooth waters. When on very, very small creeks I go back to an Airlock as they have some weight, so when I’m dapping wets they can give some swing to the line and when I’m drifting wets or nymphs I can swing the line upstream, put it down, drift, and repeat and the less air-resistant, slightly denser tiny Airlock indicator again helps me swing the fly upstream. But I sometimes use a Dorsey in this situation. It just depends on the situation for me. Thank you for your comments. They are correct for the most part on sensitivity except on rough waters, where it is easier to detect the obvious “tick” of a bobber-style indicator and easily tell the difference between a strike and when it just gets splashed by water or blown by wind, versus a Dorsey style. On rough water the Airlock is the best tool for the job. But on smooth water and low wind or small creeks, the Dorsey is the best.
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