Cutting Wire

[Chisum 0]

Been lurking for over a year and have began tying again.  Watched a lot of videos and read a lot of articles and post, was still having issues with the whole "helicoptering" of wire.  Tried using small wire cutters and they always left a tag.  Found these on Amazon.  Not pushing a product but it's an alternative and cuts really close for .035 and below.

Vepkuso Wide Jaw Opening Oversized Stainless Steel Toenail Cutter

 

 

[cphubert 0]

If you are happy with the toenail cutters then your all set, in not look for a pair of flush cut wire cutters often in the jewelry making sections of hobby store's. I helicopter most wire if I have to cut I use the flush cutters made for fine precision electronic work or jewelry they run around $10 but I have broken them on heavy stainless wire (.032 and heavier) and hooks so I keep a pair of heavier sidecutters near the bench also.

[WWKimba 0]

First, welcome to the site - I also joined this site about a year or so ago.  I came over from another site where I was a member for ~10 years.

Glad you found the clippers.  One hint if you'd like to try helicoptering the wire in the future - most tyers concentrate on the wire and forget the tying thread.  Next time you helicopter the wire hold the thread tight.  A lot of times when it takes forever for the wire to break is that it is moving under the thread and creating a hinge - spreading the force out.  By holding the wire tight all the pressure to weaken and break the wire will focus on just one spot in the wire.

Hope this helps and I look forward to seeing you more on the site!

Kim

[tjm 0]

I don't tie as much as I did long time ago but I've always cut ribbing wire/tinsel  with the tying scissors that are constantly in my hand, not with the points but with the thickest part near the hinge. This means a few things,  a) I don't have to take the scissors off my fingers, b) I don't have to look for the nippers, c) when done with the nippers I don't have to move every thing on the table to find the scissors again. For hard wire, nothing beats a professional quality set of 4" dykes. If there is any tag left I simply mash it to the hook with thumbnail or back of scissors and go on. (Well I didn't always use the scissors, I started out using ordinary fingernail clippers, but I've used the scissors for decades.) btw, the dykes will trim toenails and cuticles too.

[jamieofthenorth 0]

16 hours ago, WWKimba said:

  One hint if you'd like to try helicoptering the wire in the future - most tyers concentrate on the wire and forget the tying thread.  Next time you helicopter the wire hold the thread tight.  A lot of times when it takes forever for the wire to break is that it is moving under the thread and creating a hinge - spreading the force out.  By holding the wire tight all the pressure to weaken and break the wire will focus on just one spot in the wire.

 

Kim, thank you for that. I had wondered why it was so difficult for me and I strongly suspect that is why. 

@Chisum - Welcome to the site. I joined here last early summer and have learned a lot. Great folks on here. 

[flytire 0]

[jcozzz 0]

Yes,and some scissors have a little notch at the pivot point for that reason.

[flytire 0]

5 minutes ago, jcozzz said:

Yes,and some scissors have a little notch at the pivot point for that reason.

yup

my older dr slick scissors had that notch

[mikemac1 0]

Another hack to make helicoptering wire easier it to tie off the wire parallel to the hook shank.  With Br and Medium wires, they tend to float above thread wraps no matter how tight you make them.  Solution, after completing your wire wraps, wrap and additional two wraps on the shank that would normally be covered with thread wraps.  Then fold the wire back parallel to the hook shank and take a few tight wraps.  Now, the wire can’t float and will helicopter off easily.

[jamieofthenorth 0]

2 hours ago, mikemac1 said:

Another hack to make helicoptering wire easier it to tie off the wire parallel to the hook shank.  With Br and Medium wires, they tend to float above thread wraps no matter how tight you make them.  Solution, after completing your wire wraps, wrap and additional two wraps on the shank that would normally be covered with thread wraps.  Then fold the wire back parallel to the hook shank and take a few tight wraps.  Now, the wire can’t float and will helicopter off easily.

Thanks, I am going to experiment with that as well. 

[Bimini15 0]

Call me weird but I prefer to rock the wire back and forth rather that in a circular motion. Like Kimba said, if the wire is well anchored, it is all it takes.

[RickZieger 0]

For single wire I usually helicopter it off. Do 5 wraps of thread and the when the wire is off take 3 wraps off. 

For dubbing brushes I use a wire cutter as it is two strands of wire twisted.

Rick 

 

 

[Sandan 0]

1 hour ago, RickZieger said:

For single wire I usually helicopter it off. Do 5 wraps of thread and the when the wire is off take 3 wraps off. 

......

Rick 

 

 

Helicopter for me too. Two tight wraps over the wire one tight one in front. Counter wrapped wire is to me a different beast. For that I'll use 4 or 5 tight X wraps holding the wire tightly. Then helicopter. For me counter wrapped wire "moves" under the thread unless I anchor it good with the X wraps. Rick I like 5-3.

[jrodell 0]

The toe nail clippers and back end near the pivot point of the scissors are great ideas, never really thought of either of those myself.  I bought a few cheap pairs of hand tools for Harbor Freight and the garage and just repurposed one of the more cheaper non-useful ones for the garage for my fly bench.  This size is small enough to be out of the way and it's cut fly wire acceptably.  Maybe not as close to the shank as OP's device but just another alternative to throw into the hat.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-diagonal-cutters-63814.html?_br_psugg_q=diagonal+cutters