Jump to content
Fly Tying

SilverCreek

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    3,503
  • Joined

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About SilverCreek

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Trout
  • Security
    2010

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You are getting MUCH better. I am getting picky here since I think you did a good job. When I click on the photo, I notice that the fly body has guard hairs sticking out of the dubbing. The original adams was tied with muskrat underfur fur that was untanned and therefore still has the natural oil on the underfur to make it waterproof and help the fly float. Grab the fur between the thumb and forefinger of left hand and cut the fur off at the skin. Now grab the bottom the cut fur with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Now grab the guard hairs, which are the long hairs that stick out and pull them out. That will leave just the soft underfur. Now when you dub the body, there will be no long hairs sticking out. The fly body will be smooth. You can trim the guard hairs off if this fly for a smoother body, The back of dubbed fly body goes Slightly too far back just slightly past where the hook starts to bend. It makes the fly body just slightly too long. I mention this just so you will notice it. These are very MINOR faults and really make no difference on how the fly will fish. So for the next Adams, pick out the guard hairs out of the fubbing, use the proper tail hackle, and dub a slightly thinner body. You have done very well in a short time!
  2. Palmered hackle length on a dry fly should be about 1.5 times the hook gap. Proportions are key. Fly proportions are judged relative to the length of the fly body. The hook length determines body length so measure the length of the material whether it be hackle, wings, or tailing material against the hook to determine where the tie in point is on the material to get the right length on the fly. For example, I tie the hackle on a dry fly about the length of the fly body so to find hackle of the correct length, I measure it against the length of the hook shank. Here is some suggested reading to get you on the right track. http://www.sexyloops.com/flytying/proportion.shtml https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/tying-flies-beautiful-flies/151957 https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/tying-flies-beautiful-flies/151957
  3. Epistemology is the theory of knowledge. It is the study of how we justify what we believe to be true. Even if we did not know that trout see the same colors that we do, the simple fact is that we can only imitate what WE SEE. Suppose that trout could see into the ultraviolet or infrared spectrum. How can we imitate that color if we cannot see that the natural insect reflects colors in that spectrum. The obvious answer is that we cannot. We cannot know what we do not know!
  4. Trout essentially see the same colors that we do but they see very poor detail since the trout retina does not have a macula. Read Gordon Byrnes article on trout vision: https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/how-trout-see/454967
  5. Thanks for the vote of confidence. Here's a post about my resin from a member of The Fly Tying Forum.
  6. John, I wrote some instructions on how to dub fly bodies on the link below with following comment by noted fly tyer Al Beaty.
  7. If your ultimate goal is to tie a fly that the most selective of fish will take as a natural, then you need to do two things very well. The first is to pick out the most realistic pattern and this requires some understanding of what trout look for and what makes for a realistic pattern, The second is the ability to tie the pattern well and that not only includes the ability to tie well BUT also the requirement to have the proper tools, materials, and tying ability. If your goal is also catching that fish, then requires stalking, casting, mending, and strike detection skills as well
  8. To add to what Chugnug posted, the Hockley method of split tails is from my post back in 2017. Bud Hockley of Baltimore Maryland also devised a method of tying spit or fan tails which is both elegant and simple . This method was described in the 1985 September issue (vol 16, issue 6) of Fly Fisherman Magazine, pg 36 by none other than John Betts, the originator of microfibbets. 1. Tie an even number of Betts microfibbets or stiff hackle fibers in the usual manner and overwrap them with thread back to just before the start of the bend of the hook. Give yourself the room for two more wraps of thread before the bend starts. 2. Take a smooth dubbing needle and place it across the hook between the tails and the hook. Slide the needle toward the eye of the hook so that it lifts the tails off the hook. Now wrap two turns of thread around the dubbing needle and the hook as if you were going to tie the needle to the hook. This will slide the two turns of thread under the tail fibers. Gently pull the needle out as you tighten the thread, and guide the thread so that they lie around the hook, but under the tail fibers, and just in back of the thread wraps which tie the tail down. 3. Now take the dubbing needle and place it along side of the hook closest to you with the tip of the needle toward the eye of the hook. There should be a little space between the hook and needle to maneuver the needle. Now take the thread around the needle, and between the hook and the tails, as if you were going to tie the needle to the back of the hook. As you tighten the thread, gently remove the needle and guide the thread so that it comes to lie on top of the two wraps you place in step two. This wrap will further splay the tails from the back of the hook 4. Keep repeating step three to place multiple wraps of thread just at the base of the tails, between the tails and the hook, until the tails begin to fan and split. When you have built up the thread ball, use your fingers to even up and split the tails and elevate them if you want. 5. Now take the thread and take a couple of cross wraps around the tail to hold them in the final position. There you have it. The Hockley method of split or fan tailing a fly without using a dubbing ball. BTW, Hockley uses it for stonefly nymphs as well as dry flies.
  9. John, My premed major at Stanford University was chemistry and I make and sell my own brand of UV resin. I also sell UV lights. I will PM you if you need information on how to purchase Here are some threads from this BB about my products: http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78997-silver-creeks-uv-coating/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/80683-uv-resins/ https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/uv-resins.767872/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78049-silver-creek-resin-great-stuff/ http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/78123-a-few-with-silver-creeks-uv/
  10. I like it but I have 2 suggestions. If you are going to use parachute post material for the wings, less is more. Use less material but spread it out and spread the fibers out and fix them in place with UV glue. Note how a real mayfly spinner looks on the water. Suggestion 1 - If you are going to use parachute post material for the wings, less is more. Use less material but spread it out and spread the fibers out and fix them in place with UV glue. Suggestion 2 - However, the best and cheapest material I have found for spinners is white twinkle organza fabric. You can buy a yard of it for several dollars. It works because it sparkles simulating the sparkle of spinner wings. Rather than organza fabric, you can also buy white organza ribbon. Do NOT take the fibers apart. Tie it in as a strip of fabric and then remove the cross threads after the wing is tied it. Leave some cross thread at the base of the wing and this helps maintain spread of the fibers. See the way Gary Borger ties it in this chocolate spinner pattern. Full tying directions here: Gary Borger Twinkle Wing Spinner Pasted Graphic.tiff Pasted Graphic.tiff
  11. I'm surprised that they would include that as a pattern for you to tie. As I said, the most common rust colored fly pattern is the rusty spinner and so I am surprised they did have you tie that one with the rust colored dubbing. It's a pattern that you will use much more often than a rusty parachute. I am going to ask other fly tyers who are are reading this. Any of you have rusty parachutes in your fly boxes?
  12. Have you looked into getting drugs from overseas? Drugs from companies in Canada are cheaper. https://www.singlecare.com/blog/ordering-medications-from-canada/#:
  13. When you google "rusty mayfly patterns" you will find that they are rusty spinner (mayfly imago stage) patterns. https://www.google.com/search?q=rusty+mayfly+patterns+for+trout&sca_esv=d1dc203dc5631f05&sca_upv=1&sxsrf=ACQVn0-qI75aBYBGXYkgogg78Z7fx2PAmg%3A1711804360760&source=hp&ei=yA8IZpyELL7E0PEP7ZqxmAw&iflsig=ANes7DEAAAAAZggd2FhW0hDU2UrQN18y3YcPU5G80oko&oq=rus&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IgNydXMqAggAMgQQIxgnMgsQLhiABBiKBRiRAjILEC4YgAQYigUYkQIyChAAGIAEGIoFGEMyChAAGIAEGIoFGEMyChAuGIAEGIoFGEMyChAAGIAEGIoFGEMyChAAGIAEGIoFGEMyChAAGIAEGIoFGEMyChAAGIAEGIoFGENItjlQAFjDHnABeACQAQCYAZcBoAGZBKoBAzAuNLgBAcgBAPgBAZgCBaACtgTCAgsQABiABBiKBRiRAsICDhAAGIAEGIoFGLEDGIMBwgILEAAYgAQYsQMYgwHCAgsQLhiABBixAxiDAcICERAuGIAEGLEDGIMBGMcBGNEDwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAhoQLhiABBiKBRiRAhiXBRjcBBjeBBjgBNgBAcICEBAuGIAEGIoFGEMYsQMYgwHCAgUQABiABMICDRAuGIAEGIoFGEMYsQPCAg0QABiABBgKGLEDGIMBwgIZEC4YgAQYigUYQxiXBRjcBBjeBBjgBNgBAZgDALoGBggBEAEYFJIHAzEuNKAH5jA&sclient=gws-wiz#ip=1 Spinners have thin bodies so I would use less dubbing. Trout will take a parachute as a spinner but if they do not clip the front and rear hackle so they form "cross" shape of an imago stage "spent" spinner on the water surface. An even easier spinner pattern is to tie a Catskill variant dry fly and trim off the top and bottom and the fly will be a spinner pattern. There are no "rusty" brown subimago stage mayflies that I know of.
×
×
  • Create New...