First Fly to Tie!

[tctrout 0]

As I know many of you have been tying as long (or longer!) than me, I'd love to hear your thoughts on this one: What fly do you recommend for a beginning tier? 

Over 30 years ago, that fly for me was the Olive Woolly Bugger. There were a few techniques, it looked cool, I had no idea what the fly represented, and most importantly, IT CAUGHT FISH! Fast forward to 2022, and the fly that I share with new tiers is the Mop. Wow, have things changed! To me, getting a new tier to catch a fish on a fly they tied all but seals the deal, then it's off to the races to learn new patterns.

Below is a video I put together on this topic, but even without watching, I'd love to hear some patterns you recommend. 

Tim

 

 

[redietz 0]

Haven't watched the video yet, but I will.

I start off beginners classes with a Green weenie and a San Juan worm -- just to get them into how to start the thread, how to mount materials and how to whip finish.

Other instructors I know start off with a honey bug, another good choice.

[WWKimba 0]

I like to find out WHAT the person aims to fish for - no use teaching a freshwater pattern to someone fishing salt!  Also, the first tie starts many a new tyer on the materials they will use from there on - their pantry materials.  Each group of flies - salt, warm fresh, cold fresh, classic salmon, spey - all use a different set of materials.  I look at it as why teach someone to play a violin tune if they plan on playing a tuba!  

That being said there are many sets of beginner patterns.  Take the well hated/loved mop fly.  There are versions that teach using a dubbing loop, a split thread method, tying a soft hackle collar, a bead head, and If I looked hard enough, I wouldn't be surprised to see one that uses a straight noodle dub.  There's a progression of techniques from just "one" pattern.  The first fly should catch the tyer and be part of a progression of patterns that teach different skills.  Now my question - assuming you chose to teach the mop fly as a first - which one of the above would you teach FIRST?

Kim

[Sandan 0]

Tim, 

Hi. The first fly I was taught to tie was a pheasant tail nymph. So that's what I start a new tier with

[Philly 0]

I can't disagree with either.  I'm not sure what the first fly I tied was.  Could've been a woolly bugger.  Might have been a Green Weenie.  That's always been a popular fly here in PA.  Today if I were teaching a beginners class I think I would do a mop fly.  This is the mop fly that replace the Green Weenie in my fly box.  

It's less complicated than the Green Weenie.  You don't have to worry about forming the loop for the tail.  Plus you can show how to tie in a thorax and use a bead for weight.

Kim's right, you need to know what fish the folks in the class plan to target.  This works for trout.  You could also use it for panfish, but since it's tied on a size 12 hook,  a bit small for panfish IMHO.  Now I guess I should watch the video.

[Philly 0]

Just watched the video, I like the way he thinks.  The only thing with the mop fly is most people tend to use the standard mop piece which to me is too large/fat if you're trying to imitate a nymph and tying it on a size 12 or 14 hook.  If I were going to teach the mop fly I'd bring several different sizes and colors.  The one in the photo is 5/16ths inch long.  I have the fat pieces from a 1/2 inch to 2 inches long.  With that basic pattern I could cover from trout to bass in the class depending on the interests of the attendees..

 

[utyer 0]

Back in the dark ages when I started, I followed my only resource on tying.  The Wise Fisherman's Encyclopedia from 1951.  There were simple drawings in black and white on tying the Royal Coachman Wet Fly, & a Black Gnat, Dry fly, that was IT.  Other patterns and techniques were of course listed, but little else shown.  When I started teaching about 10 years later, I started with the Bivisible, and the Renegade.  Now I start with the most BASIC pattern there is, a Thread Midge Larvae.  A beginner can learn to tie an effective pattern that will catch a trout or panfish with nothing but a hook and some thread.  I always start out with white thread, and have my students color the pattern with markers.  The next step is to add a rib.  A very fine copper wire  salvaged from electrical cords or computer cables.   These I add a bead head (glass and tiny,)  When a novice is starting out,  there is a load of equipment to get, and having people have to spend another $50.00 on materials, is a burden they can live without to get started.   One other expense they can life without is the cost of classes.  I have never charged for any instruction, and never will.  

 

 

 

 

[chugbug27 0]

I've never taught anyone to tie, but that's where I'd start if I had nobody to answer to and no skin in the game -- thread midges. I'd circulate a copy or two of Midge Magic, too. 

[robow7 0]

We've tied the wooly worm, only two materials needed (maybe 3 if you want a short tail), chenille and a hackle.  The hackle is there to reinforce the idea of feathers and fur or natural materials which is how it all began.

[Bruce Derington 0]

Yep, wooly worm 

[Chris_in_Louisiana 0]

I'll third the woolly worm recommendation.  It was my first fly and one I caught fish on for many years including a grass carp.  On the few occasions I've been tasked with teaching someone, that's been the fly I've gone with. 

Though Kim does have a good point regarding the target species.  I took this approach when my wife asked to learn a few weeks ago.  She had watched me catch a few large bass and specifically asked to learn the pattern I was using.  Starting with a woolly worm in that case may have led to a loss of interest.

Chris

[mikechell 0]

For warm water anglers, I'd have to recommend a top water popper.  It's the fly I learned to fly fish with.  Nothing gets the blood pumping like some active 'Gills blasting a popper.

$.98 flip flops from Wally World and a hole punch from Harbor Freight are the only "non-tying" items you'd need to make several dozen poppers.

[WWKimba 0]

I do agree that if I was limited to two choices - the bugger or the worm - I'd choose the worm.  Tying material up top of the hook shank is an important skill and the worm is easier for a beginner to see this skill plus though marabou is cheap (thank you Lacey Gee!), yarn can be free!

Kim

[gillage 0]

Hands down for me a "Cap Spider".

Killer pattern and provides experience with chenille and rubber legs.

[vicrider 0]

On 2/19/2022 at 9:53 AM, robow7 said:

We've tied the wooly worm, only two materials needed (maybe 3 if you want a short tail), chenille and a hackle.  The hackle is there to reinforce the idea of feathers and fur or natural materials which is how it all began.

I'm with ya' on the wooly worm but if you don't have a red tag it ain't a wooly worm. No tag it's a Griffiths Gnat. Put some Herl on top and it's a Crackleback. I still tie them and use them but I use about 4 or 5 strands of stubby floss for the tail.